From the South Bay to the Valley
From the West Side to the East Side
Everybody's very happy
'Cause the sun is shining all the time
Looks like another perfect day
I love L.A. (We love it)
--Randy Newman, I Love L.A.
As I wandered around the streets of Los Angeles, the lyrics of Randy Newman's paean to L.A. echoed through my mind, and visions of its music video accompanied those lyrics. I spent several days in Los Angeles attending the Design Bloggers Conference, a fun and fascinating event that would not seem my usual interest. However, I was there to make a presentation, How to Differentiate Yourself In a Crowded Online Marketplace, which entailed speaking about Sake and Blogging.
At its most elemental, all of the design bloggers and I are lovers of beauty, just in different areas, so we have much more in common than what it might seem on the surface. That shared aesthetic sense binds us on a deeper level than our mutual use of the same tool, blogging. As I spent time chatting with a number of the attendees, it was clear that we did share much, and that they were eager to learn and share their own passions with me.
While I was in L.A., I enjoyed some delicious meals, snacks and drinks. It was my first time in that city but I would like to return again to check out more of its culinary scene. I only checked out there merest fraction of what the city has to offer. During my culinary experiences, I did not take my usual detailed notes and photographs, desirous more of experiencing the meal and socializing with my dining companions. However, these spots are all worthy of mention.
Adam Japko, the founder of the Design Bloggers Conference, and I wandered around Little Tokyo one afternoon, checking out the sights. This is a great neighborhood with a myriad of Japanese shops, restaurants, and attractions, including the Kinokuniya book store (one of my favorite book shops), Mitsuwa Marketplace and Koyasan Buddhist Temple. One of my favorite finds was the Cafe Dulce, situated in the Japanese Village Plaza.
Cafe Dulce is a coffee shop and bakery that creates a wide variety of baked goods and sandwiches, from roti buns to donuts, cakes to breads. It was a small, clean shop and you could watch them baking numerous items. Service was also very friendly and helpful. A very cool, independent shop. Adam raved about the Vietnamese Style Iced Coffee while I enjoyed some unsweetened iced tea. We tried a couple roti buns (which seem to have a Malaysian origin), including a basic roti and a green tea one. Lightly sweet, they had a slightly crisp outer crust with a softer interior and a very pleasant flavor. They were also very fresh. Think of it as a mildly sweet and flavored bread roll.
What really excited me though were the Bacon Donuts! This was a yeast donut, topped by a sweet glaze and plenty of bacon crumbles. A perfect combination of sweet and salty, atop a soft, fresh donut. Even without the bacon, this would have been an excellent donut. I found them very addictive and bought some to take back to the hotel. I have previously eaten the Maple & Bacon donut at Voodoo Donuts in Portland, OR, but I much prefer this bacon donut. I have never been a big fan of maple, and the lightness of this donut was compelling. They sell other donuts too, some covered with breakfast cereals, green tea donuts, cream filled and more. They looked as good as the bacon donut and I wish I had more time to explore all of the flavors. If you visit or live in L.A., then you must check out Cafe Dulce.
For my first evening in Los Angeles, Adam and I chose a special place to dine, N/Naka, a kaiseki inspired Japanese restaurant which has earned many raves. Adam also ran a contest on Twitter, giving the opportunity for a couple design bloggers to join us for dinner. The winners were Amy, of House of Wentworth, and Kelley, of The Hidden List, both who are from Dallas, Texas. It was a superb evening, with incredible food, great Sake and wine, and very pleasant conversation.
Chef/Owner Niki Nakayama, a Los Angeles native, has trained in Japan, including under Chef Masa Sato in the art of kaiseki. Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese practice, involving a multi-course meal that emphasizes presentation, taste, seasonality, local ingredients and balance. Each dish is a work of beauty, from its presentation to the complexity and balance of its taste. Chef Nakayama's first two restaurants, Azami Sushi Cafe and Inaka, did very well and N/Naka is the natural extension of those two endeavors. Their website states that "..., Chef Niki Nakayama is committed to creating a meal that will engage your attention — it's about enjoying the moment, the current offerings of the season, and ultimately, the food in front of you."
The restaurant is very unassuming from the outside and we drove right by it initially. Inside, it has a more spartan decor, yet provides a warm ambiance. It is a relatively small place, with a limited amount of seating, yet the tables are spaced far enough apart to give some element of privacy. In one room, there is a glass wall showing their wine cellar area and I was excited to see all the Sakes mixed in with the wines. For dinner, you basically have the choice of a nine, ten (vegetarian), thirteen or sixteen course meal, so you need to plan for a 3.5 to 5 hour dining experience. It is well worth your time.
Our server, who actually had only been working for four days, did a very good job, acting very courteously and professionally. The entire service lacked pretension and we were made to feel very welcome by all of the staff. We opted for the 9 course meal and you can check out this menu for more detail of what that can entail. The menus change regularly, especially considering what is seasonally available. Everything was amazing and I cannot recommend N/Naka enough. Enjoy the photos of many of the dishes we savored.
What colors! And love that Uni.
A piece of art.
Very fresh fish, from Big Eye Tuna to Hamachi.
Maybe my favorite dish of the evening, with abalone and garlic.
Incredible Nigiri.
A compelling version of Chawanmushi.
A simple but delicious dessert.
Our drink choices well accompanied the food. We selected a single wine, the 2009 Bodegas Paso Robles "Dona Blanca" ($28), a Grenache Blanc/Malvasia Bianca blend from one of my favorite Paso Robles producers. I previously tasted the 2008 vintage and the 2009 was equally as compelling, with lots of complexity, great flavors and a satisfying finish. Everyone very much enjoyed this wine. And as the wine retails for about $18, the restaurant is offering it at a low markup. Highly recommended!
We started our Sake enjoyment with a glass of the Sawa Sawa Junmai Nigori, a Sparkling Sake, that was lightly sweet, effervescent and fruity. Next, we ordered a bottle of Shichida Yamahai Junmai Karakuchi, a dry, umami rich Sake with elements of anise and licorice on the finish. This would be excellent with mushrooms, beef or other umami-rich dishes.
We ended with a killer Sake which impressed everyone. The Denshin Natsu Daiginjo Nama is a rare Sake, with only 420 bottles made each year. It is produced by the Ippongi Kubo Honten brewery, which was founded in 1902, in the Chubu region of the Fukui prefecture. The brewery sits at the base of Mt. Haku, deep in Echizen, which is known for its crystal clear water. It was made from the famed Yamada Nishiki rice, which was polished to 50%. Incredibly complex, great fruit flavors, crisp, clean and smooth. A "Wow!" Sake, sure to impress, and which all of us loved very deeply. It receives my highest recommendation though it may be difficult to locate.
The next night, a group of about ten of us, went to Night+Market, a Thai street food place. Their website describes the type of food they create: "In Thai, it's called 'aharn klam lao' which roughly translates to 'food to facilitate drinking.' That's at the heart of what we do. We make food for drunkards." Unfortunately, we arrived at the restaurant past 9pm, on a Sunday, and didn't know that the place closed at 10pm. So we were a bit rushed, though the restaurant allowed us to stay a bit past 10pm.
The basic menu includes about 25 different items, from small plates to heartier entrees, and there was a Specials menu with 6 additional items. We selected some dishes and also asked our server to bring us a bunch of his own recommendations. In the end, we received a nonstop parade of dishes, which probably constituted at least 80% of the menu. Overall, the food was quite tasty with only a couple dishes which were merely average. We received a great variety, including many spicy dishes, seafood, pork, beef & vegetables. Be wary as several of the dishes are very spicy and you may need something to mellow the heat in your mouth.
My favorite dishes were the Fried Pig Tails, Beef Grapow and Whole Fish Sam-Rod (with a delectable cripsy skin). Everyone who tried the fried pig tails loved them, though a few people refused to even tast them. Other delicious dishes included the Koi Pla (salmon ceviche), Tendon Panang with Roti, Pad Kee Mao (drunken noodles with short ribs), the Pork Toro (grilled fatty hog collar), and Kar Moo Parlow (braised pork hock). The most disappointing dish was the Nuoc Mam Chicken Wings, which were very ordinary, especially when compared to the wings from Pok Pok in Portland, another Thai street food place.
Service was very good and it is a cool place to grab a bite and a drink. Most of the dishes are very well prepared, with an intriguing blend of spices, and none of the dishes were bad. They were merely ordinary. Night+Market earned my recommendation.
My final dinner of my trip was another small plates restaurant, The Bazaar by Jose Andres, which serves incredible Spanish Tapas. There were about twenty of us, including singer Patti Austin (who was a down to earth and fascinating person). Located in Beverly Hills, the restaurant decor is extremely compelling, chic without being ostentatious.
A tasting menu was prepared for us, with eighteen courses, and we ordered our own wines. Overall, the meal was delicious and certain dishes even brought my mind back to Spain. I liked their creativity as well in the nontraditional tapas. Everyone I spoke to at our table was very pleased with our dinner.
The menu included:
American Caviar Cone (like a salty ice cream cone)
Sweet Potato Chips (excellent!)
Jamon Iberico with Pa'amb Tomaquet (bread topped by rubbed tomato with silky ham)
King Crab Can (served in an actual can, tasty sweet crab meat)
Mussel Can (also served in a can)
Market Fish Ceviche & Avocado Roll
Not Your Everyday Caprese (cherry tomatoes & little balls of mozzarella that squirt in your mouth, so tasty)
Ensaladilla Rusa (potatoes, carrots, tuna belly and mayo)
Bunuelos (codfish fritters, very good)
Papas Canarias (salty wrinkled potatoes with mojo verde, quite addictive snack)
Seared Mary's Farm Chicken (meaty, tender, juicy, cripsy skin, quite compelling)
Catalan Spinach
Wild Mushroom Rice with Idiazabal cheese (creamy, umami rich and also addictive)
Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks (tender, meaty and tasty)
Philly Cheesesteak (very interesting, nontraditional dish)
Pan con Chocolate
Traditional Spanish Flan
Special Chef's Selection Dessert (a mousse-like pudding of some type)
With my meal, I primarily drank Sherry, introducing the rest of our group to some excellent selections. Our first two choices were both from Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, one of my favorite Sherry bodegas. We had the Manzanilla La Gitana and the Amontillado Napoleón, both different in taste yet good choices for the tapas dishes. We also had the E. Lustau Palo Cortado Almacenistas Vides, a superb Sherry with a great depth of flavor which was the favorite of a number of people at dinner. Palo Cortado is one of my favorite types of Sherry and the Almacenista was very well made.
We had excellent service and I was thoroughly impressed with the restaurant. It too receives my highest recommendation.
I left Los Angeles, with a full and satisfied belly, singing "I love L.A."
The Tipsy Sensei & Others. And A Contest!
This month is the First Year Anniversary of the publication of my first short story, Yurine's Pot, the beginning of the Tipsy Sensei series. Since then, I have published two more short stories and a novel in the Tipsy Sensei series. I am also pleased to publish this month my second paperback book, The Tipsy Sensei & Others, my new collection of nine food, wine and Sake short stories. It is available through Amazon as a Trade Paperback and an Ebook. I hope to conduct some local signings of the paperback and will announce them on my blog once they are scheduled.
The nine short stories contained within this volume range from romance to mystery, fantasy to thriller. It collects together the first three Tipsy Sensei stories as well as adds a new story centered on a popular character from Demons, Gods & Sake. You will also find five other food and wine stories.
The collection contains:
Yurine's Pot (Tipsy Sensei #1): Nate Randall is a Sake expert in Boston and his son is dying from cancer. Nate receives an ancient, magical item that allegedly can cure any illness. Others desire that item as well, and may be willing to kill for it. Can Nate save his son, and if so, at what cost?
The Ghost Of A Ninja (Tipsy Sensei #2): Several thieves have been slain under mysterious circumstances. Is the ghost of a ninja responsible? Nate is asked to help a friend who is worried that he will be murdered next. Can Nate solve this mystery and save the life of his friend?
The Fox & The Katana (Tipsy Sensei #3): Nate has been approached by a kitsune, a fox spirit, who wants Nate to murder her mate. She claims that her mate is a remorseless and sadistic killer who has slain innocents across the U.S. Can Nate kill this kitsune? Or is Nate being set up, a pawn in some intricate scheme?
Forest of the Ox Demon: A brand new story featuring Hato, a popular character from Demons, Gods & Sake, the first Tipsy Sensei novel. This is a historical tale of medieval Japan, exploring Hato's mysterious past, and involves ninjas, brigands and a supernatural creature.
You Had Me At Foie: A tale of romance, a bond formed over a delicious dish of foie gras.
Feast For A Killer: What would you do if an assassin showed up on your doorstep to kill your spouse?
The Perfect Wine: An obsessed wine lover seeks a legendary perfect wine. Can such a wine exist? And if so, what price would you pay to drink such a wine?
The Veil Of Flowers: A geeky and unusual story, told from the viewpoint of a yeast in a barrel of Sherry.
The Passwords: A more traditional mystery, where a man must decipher an enigmatic letter to provide justice for a murdered friend. The key to the cipher involves wine.
Check out my latest book and please understand that you can read this book even if you do not own a Kindle. You can download a Free App for your computer or smart phone that will allow you to read any Kindle ebook.
While you read The Tipsy Sensei & Others, I will be working on Nate's next supernatural adventure, Hand-Fed Tigers (Tipsy Sensei #5). Could it involve zombies and cats?
Now, on to my Anniversary Contest. This is a picture of Jessica, Courtney & Laura, some new fans of Demons, Gods & Sake. The photo gave me an idea, to collect pictures of other fans holding a copy of any of my books. I have decided to make it contest with a cool prize.
The contest will run from now until midnight, April 5, 2013. To enter, just send me a picture of yourself holding one of my books. If you only have an ebook, just send me a picture with your ebook reader showing the cover of one of my books. You will get an extra entry if the picture is of my latest book, The Tipsy Sensei & Others. You can also earn up to four extra entries if your picture is especially creative, which I will determine at my discretion.
The Grand Prize will be that I will immortalize you as a character in the next Tipsy Sensei novel, Hand-Fed Tigers. The character will bear your name and might also share some of your interests and personality. We will work together on the details. You will also receive a copy of the paperback version of Hand-Fed Tigers. At least two Runner-Ups will also receive copies of the ebook of Hand-Fed Tigers when it is ultimately released.
So start taking your picture with the Tipsy Sensei!
The nine short stories contained within this volume range from romance to mystery, fantasy to thriller. It collects together the first three Tipsy Sensei stories as well as adds a new story centered on a popular character from Demons, Gods & Sake. You will also find five other food and wine stories.
The collection contains:
Yurine's Pot (Tipsy Sensei #1): Nate Randall is a Sake expert in Boston and his son is dying from cancer. Nate receives an ancient, magical item that allegedly can cure any illness. Others desire that item as well, and may be willing to kill for it. Can Nate save his son, and if so, at what cost?
The Ghost Of A Ninja (Tipsy Sensei #2): Several thieves have been slain under mysterious circumstances. Is the ghost of a ninja responsible? Nate is asked to help a friend who is worried that he will be murdered next. Can Nate solve this mystery and save the life of his friend?
The Fox & The Katana (Tipsy Sensei #3): Nate has been approached by a kitsune, a fox spirit, who wants Nate to murder her mate. She claims that her mate is a remorseless and sadistic killer who has slain innocents across the U.S. Can Nate kill this kitsune? Or is Nate being set up, a pawn in some intricate scheme?
Forest of the Ox Demon: A brand new story featuring Hato, a popular character from Demons, Gods & Sake, the first Tipsy Sensei novel. This is a historical tale of medieval Japan, exploring Hato's mysterious past, and involves ninjas, brigands and a supernatural creature.
You Had Me At Foie: A tale of romance, a bond formed over a delicious dish of foie gras.
Feast For A Killer: What would you do if an assassin showed up on your doorstep to kill your spouse?
The Perfect Wine: An obsessed wine lover seeks a legendary perfect wine. Can such a wine exist? And if so, what price would you pay to drink such a wine?
The Veil Of Flowers: A geeky and unusual story, told from the viewpoint of a yeast in a barrel of Sherry.
The Passwords: A more traditional mystery, where a man must decipher an enigmatic letter to provide justice for a murdered friend. The key to the cipher involves wine.
Check out my latest book and please understand that you can read this book even if you do not own a Kindle. You can download a Free App for your computer or smart phone that will allow you to read any Kindle ebook.
While you read The Tipsy Sensei & Others, I will be working on Nate's next supernatural adventure, Hand-Fed Tigers (Tipsy Sensei #5). Could it involve zombies and cats?
Now, on to my Anniversary Contest. This is a picture of Jessica, Courtney & Laura, some new fans of Demons, Gods & Sake. The photo gave me an idea, to collect pictures of other fans holding a copy of any of my books. I have decided to make it contest with a cool prize.
The contest will run from now until midnight, April 5, 2013. To enter, just send me a picture of yourself holding one of my books. If you only have an ebook, just send me a picture with your ebook reader showing the cover of one of my books. You will get an extra entry if the picture is of my latest book, The Tipsy Sensei & Others. You can also earn up to four extra entries if your picture is especially creative, which I will determine at my discretion.
The Grand Prize will be that I will immortalize you as a character in the next Tipsy Sensei novel, Hand-Fed Tigers. The character will bear your name and might also share some of your interests and personality. We will work together on the details. You will also receive a copy of the paperback version of Hand-Fed Tigers. At least two Runner-Ups will also receive copies of the ebook of Hand-Fed Tigers when it is ultimately released.
So start taking your picture with the Tipsy Sensei!
Joining The Drink Local Wine Board
I have recently reviewed wines from several Massachusetts wineries, including Westport Rivers. Last year, several of my posts discussed wines from diverse regions such as Mexico, Nova Scotia, and Vermont. Thus, my latest endeavor fits well within my interests, to explore and promote wines from all over North America.
I am pleased and proud to announce that I have been appointed to the board of directors of Drink Local Wine LLC, a nonprofit organization whose mission is to raise attention of regional wines from all across North America.
"Richard is a welcome addition to the Drink Local Wine board," said Michael Wangbickler, President of the Drink Local Wine Board of Directors. "He is committed and passionate about regional wine, brings us the perspective of a New Englander, and has extensive experience working with organizations such as ours."
I will be joining the current board members which include: Dave McIntyre of the Washington Post; Michael Wangbickler of Balzac Communications; Richard Leahy, an east coast wine writer and consultant; Gil Kulers of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution; Rhonni Moffitt, publisher of Arizona Wines & Vines magazine; Dezel Quillen, Virginia wine blogger who writes My Vine Spot; and Lenn Thompson, founder and executive editor of the New York Cork Report.
Drink Local Wine is the brainchild of Dave McIntyre and Jeff Siegel, who writes the Wine Curmudgeon blog. The organization holds two major events each year: a Conference spotlighting regional wine and Regional Wine Week, when bloggers and writers from across the continent write special pieces about their favorite regional wines. The 2013 DLW Conference, the fifth annual, will be held in Baltimore, Maryland on April 13 and will focus on the wines of Maryland. I will be attending the conference and as I have not tasted Maryland wines before, this will definitely be an interesting conference.
All fifty states now have wineries yet most states receive very little publicity about their wines. California, Washington and Oregon dominate the wine press and short shrift is given to the rest of the country. However, you can find well crafted and delicious wines all across the country and those examples need to be promoted and praised. I have done my part to write about some of these wines but more can always be done. Being a part of Drink Local Wine will give me the opportunity to do more.
That will include not only promoting U.S. wines, but also the wines of Canada and Mexico. In May, I will be attending TasteCamp, which will explore the wines of Quebec.
I encourage all wine lovers to expand their horizons and explore wines from all across North America. Don't confine your drinking to just a few states, but be willing to take a chance on wines from all over. You will likely find some new favorites, if only you are open to taste something new.
I am pleased and proud to announce that I have been appointed to the board of directors of Drink Local Wine LLC, a nonprofit organization whose mission is to raise attention of regional wines from all across North America.
"Richard is a welcome addition to the Drink Local Wine board," said Michael Wangbickler, President of the Drink Local Wine Board of Directors. "He is committed and passionate about regional wine, brings us the perspective of a New Englander, and has extensive experience working with organizations such as ours."
I will be joining the current board members which include: Dave McIntyre of the Washington Post; Michael Wangbickler of Balzac Communications; Richard Leahy, an east coast wine writer and consultant; Gil Kulers of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution; Rhonni Moffitt, publisher of Arizona Wines & Vines magazine; Dezel Quillen, Virginia wine blogger who writes My Vine Spot; and Lenn Thompson, founder and executive editor of the New York Cork Report.
Drink Local Wine is the brainchild of Dave McIntyre and Jeff Siegel, who writes the Wine Curmudgeon blog. The organization holds two major events each year: a Conference spotlighting regional wine and Regional Wine Week, when bloggers and writers from across the continent write special pieces about their favorite regional wines. The 2013 DLW Conference, the fifth annual, will be held in Baltimore, Maryland on April 13 and will focus on the wines of Maryland. I will be attending the conference and as I have not tasted Maryland wines before, this will definitely be an interesting conference.
All fifty states now have wineries yet most states receive very little publicity about their wines. California, Washington and Oregon dominate the wine press and short shrift is given to the rest of the country. However, you can find well crafted and delicious wines all across the country and those examples need to be promoted and praised. I have done my part to write about some of these wines but more can always be done. Being a part of Drink Local Wine will give me the opportunity to do more.
That will include not only promoting U.S. wines, but also the wines of Canada and Mexico. In May, I will be attending TasteCamp, which will explore the wines of Quebec.
I encourage all wine lovers to expand their horizons and explore wines from all across North America. Don't confine your drinking to just a few states, but be willing to take a chance on wines from all over. You will likely find some new favorites, if only you are open to taste something new.
Thursday Sips & Nibbles
I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On Thursday, March 21, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Chehalem, the popular Oregon-based winery specializing in both red and white varietals. Legal Sea Foods will team up Chehalem’s winemaker, Wynne Peterson-Nedry, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with choices from their vine. Chehalem, the local Calapooia Indian word meaning “gentle land” or “valley of flowers,” prides itself on purely reflecting what its vineyard has produced.
The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Oysters* on the Half Shell, Green Apple and Poblano Vinaigrette
Seared Sea Scallop Tartlets, Curried Leek Jam
Lobster Spring Rolls, Citrus Ginger Glaze
Chehalem “Three Vineyard” Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Seared Halibut Fillet (Mussels and Fennel Cream Sauce)
Chehalem “INOX” Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Poached Maine Lobster (Tarragon Nage, Baby Mache)
Chehalem “Ian’s Reserve” Stoller Vineyard Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, 2008
THIRD COURSE
Hickory Wood Grilled Veal Chop (Morel Mushrooms, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potato)
Chehalem “Three Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2010
Chehalem “Ridgecrest” Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 2010
CHEESE COURSE
Morbier, Port Salut, MouCo ColoRouge (Cherry Compote, Toast Points)
Chehalem “Reserve” Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 2009
Cost: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397
2) Darryl's Corner Bar & Kitchen (DCBK) hosts a fundraiser called “Big Star on Bar”, which showcases a community figure who serves as the "Startender" of the evening, mixing a specialty cocktail to raise money for the charity of his or her choice.
On Monday, March 11, from 5:30pm-8:30pm, Dr. Tiffany Cooper Gueye will be behind the DCBK bar, making BELLinis with 100 percent of her tips going toward BELL. There will also be a surprise raffle over the course of the evening. There is no cover charge and the event is open to the public. For reservations, please call 617-536-1100.
3) Haru’s Boston location is bringing back its popular promotion from last summer: Mystery Envelopes. From March 1 until May 1, Haru will once again offer its guests a chance to win a prize every visit they make.
Instructions to play: simply visit Haru Boston from March 1 through May 1 to receive your mystery envelope (while supplies last). DO NOT OPEN THE ENVELOPE. On your next visit to Haru Boston on or before May 20 (must be different day than when mystery envelope was received), present the still-sealed mystery envelope to a manager or server to see what treasure awaits. Prizes include $10 and $25 Haru gift certificates, complimentary sushi rolls, $100 Amex gift cards and a grand prize of $500 in Amex gift cards. Even guests who don’t win a prize won’t leave empty-handed (so to speak): holders of non-winning envelopes will receive a complimentary order of edamame as a gift.
The more often you frequent Haru Boston, the more envelopes you can collect so come often and come hungry [subject to limit of (1) envelope per person/household per (12) hour period].
More Info: No Purchase Necessary. Must be 18 or older. Most participants will receive complimentary order of edamame. Odds of winning a prize are approximately 1:6. Subject to Official Rules posted at Haru Boston.
4) Eddie Huang, chef and owner of the critically-acclaimed BaoHaus in New York’s East Village, is bringing his beloved Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine to Boston, joining Big Night Entertainment Group’s Executive Chef Kevin Long in the Empire kitchen to create a special feast. Co-hosted by Long and Huang, the Thursday, March 14 event will kick off a visiting celebrity chef series showcasing Chef Long’s talents alongside some of today’s top chefs.
The $50 dinner will be a unique opportunity to experience Huang’s and Long’s cuisine in a stylish setting at an incredibly accessible price. Combining Empire’s hip atmosphere and lavish cuisine with BaoHaus’ authentic neighborhood feel, guests will receive an experience unlike any other. The menu will include items from Huang’s proprietary menu, including the Chairman Bao, the Uncle Jesse Bao and Coffin Bao Fried Chicken with Spicy, Tingly Condensed Milk, alongside signature items like Oxtail Soup with Heirloom Tomatoes and Mung Bean Noodles and Pi Dan Tofu.
Chef Huang – a former lawyer, stand-up comic, author, blogger and media personality – will also be signing his recently published memoir. “Fresh off the Boat” will also be included in the price of dinner. (Books will also be available for purchase and signing to Empire patrons who don’t attend the dinner.)
For reservations, please call 617-295-0001.
5) Irish eyes will be smiling when The Beehive presents their 6th annual St. Patrick’s Day festivities on Sunday, March 17 from 5pm-1am. St. Patrick’s Day at The Beehive means an evening of authentic entertainment including performances from Boston-based and lively Irish music performers, Irish inspired à la carte food & drink specials from Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey, Tyronnell Irish Whiskey and Connemara Irish Whiskey, and an evening like only The Beehive can create.
The claim from inside the ‘hive’ is that while there will be plenty of surprises, this will not be your typical Irish fest. “No green beer…but what we are planning is a sophisticated evening of amazing Irish comfort food and authentic, world-class, Irish entertainment for a mature audience,” said Co-Owner, Jack Bardy.
This year at the ‘hive,’ a “special guest” performance will kick of the night of Irish filled festivities at 5:30pm. Husband-wife duo Matt & Shannon Heaton will then bring their shared musical experience and love for Boston’s Irish music scene to the stage at 8:00PM. Boston-based, Matt has made his musical home in Boston’s Irish scene while Shannon has co-founded Boston’s Celtic Music Fest and teaches for Boston’s Comhaltas. Their modern take on traditional centuries-old Irish songs, which features Irish flute- and guitar-driven tunes and traditional Irish-style singing, will bring out emotion and Irish pride from the Irish and non-Irish alike. Matt and Shannon’s entertaining and organic onstage banter is almost good as the music (almost)!
In addition to serving the regular menu, Chef Rebecca Newell has created several à la carte specials including: Corned Beef & "Cabbage" Flatbread with Sauerkraut & Cheese, Finaan Haddie Smoked Fish & Chips with Malt Vinegar Aioli & Slaw and Grilled Lamb Chops with Colcannon Mashed Potatoes just to name a few. Along with The Beehive’s regular libations, the bar will mix traditional Irish cocktails with the best of Kilbeggan’s Irish Whiskey, Tyronnell’s 10 year Port Cask and Connemara’s 12 year Single Malt.
Dinner reservations are recommended, no cover charge, both the upstairs and downstairs bars will be open for service.
March 6th, 2013: Tuscany, Italy
March 13th, 2013: A World Tour
March 20th, 2013: Piedmont, Italy
March 27th, 2013: A Tour of Italy
Reservations accepted for parties of seven or more. Call-ahead seating is available for parties smaller than seven. Simply call (603) 952-4875 before leaving your home or office and if on a wait, you will be added to wait list ensuring priority seating. Upon arrival, please check in with the host at the front door. *There may be an additional wait when you arrive.
7) Since its opening in fall 2012, Belly Wine Bar in Kendall Square has quickly gained a following as a destination for offbeat, eccentric and hard-to-find European wines. This spring, the team at Belly will introduce some playful new food offerings for groups of all sizes that will guarantee a full belly and a seat at the restaurant (these munchies are reservation-only). So shake up your typical vino and cheese duo with gooey fondue, fried chicken and wine pairings and Sardinian lamb arm + a leg-style!
Seasonal special menus include:
Fondue for Your Crew
$14 per person
February - May
Get your dunk on with dip-able brussels sprouts, EVOO roasted potatoes, grilled focaccia, endive and apples, all ready for plunging into a gooey bowl of Spring Brook Farm Reading Raclette, Emmentaler and Gruyere.
Arm + A Leg: Lamb Jam
$62 per person
Begins March 1
Chef Robert Grant’s signature whole-animal spread switches gears for spring with a Sardinian lamb feast. Belly up to communal tables with your friends for four courses of baller carnivorous fare like lamb neck with salsa verde and fregola sarda, sticky glazed short ribs, whole wood-roasted leg of lamb, and Pecorino Calcagno with honey and nuts.
Reservations: Available for groups of 4-12 people. Please give at least 48 hours’ notice. All Arm + A Leg reservations must be made at: http://www.bellywinebar.com/reservations.
Fried Chicken and Orange Wine
$25 per person; $50 per person with flight of wine
May - September
KFC Belly-style: Killer Fried Chicken and Orange wine. A bucket of fried chicken (hot or cold), flight of orange vino and all the bird-loving extras (biscuits, pickles and citrusy fennel + radicchio slaw) enjoyed with your friends in your flip-flops on the patio.
Reservations: Available for groups of 4-8 people on the patio or in the dining room. Online reservations available beginning May 1.
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1) On Thursday, March 21, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Chehalem, the popular Oregon-based winery specializing in both red and white varietals. Legal Sea Foods will team up Chehalem’s winemaker, Wynne Peterson-Nedry, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with choices from their vine. Chehalem, the local Calapooia Indian word meaning “gentle land” or “valley of flowers,” prides itself on purely reflecting what its vineyard has produced.
The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Oysters* on the Half Shell, Green Apple and Poblano Vinaigrette
Seared Sea Scallop Tartlets, Curried Leek Jam
Lobster Spring Rolls, Citrus Ginger Glaze
Chehalem “Three Vineyard” Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, 2011
FIRST COURSE
Seared Halibut Fillet (Mussels and Fennel Cream Sauce)
Chehalem “INOX” Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, 2010
SECOND COURSE
Poached Maine Lobster (Tarragon Nage, Baby Mache)
Chehalem “Ian’s Reserve” Stoller Vineyard Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, 2008
THIRD COURSE
Hickory Wood Grilled Veal Chop (Morel Mushrooms, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potato)
Chehalem “Three Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2010
Chehalem “Ridgecrest” Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 2010
CHEESE COURSE
Morbier, Port Salut, MouCo ColoRouge (Cherry Compote, Toast Points)
Chehalem “Reserve” Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 2009
Cost: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397
2) Darryl's Corner Bar & Kitchen (DCBK) hosts a fundraiser called “Big Star on Bar”, which showcases a community figure who serves as the "Startender" of the evening, mixing a specialty cocktail to raise money for the charity of his or her choice.
On Monday, March 11, from 5:30pm-8:30pm, Dr. Tiffany Cooper Gueye will be behind the DCBK bar, making BELLinis with 100 percent of her tips going toward BELL. There will also be a surprise raffle over the course of the evening. There is no cover charge and the event is open to the public. For reservations, please call 617-536-1100.
3) Haru’s Boston location is bringing back its popular promotion from last summer: Mystery Envelopes. From March 1 until May 1, Haru will once again offer its guests a chance to win a prize every visit they make.
Instructions to play: simply visit Haru Boston from March 1 through May 1 to receive your mystery envelope (while supplies last). DO NOT OPEN THE ENVELOPE. On your next visit to Haru Boston on or before May 20 (must be different day than when mystery envelope was received), present the still-sealed mystery envelope to a manager or server to see what treasure awaits. Prizes include $10 and $25 Haru gift certificates, complimentary sushi rolls, $100 Amex gift cards and a grand prize of $500 in Amex gift cards. Even guests who don’t win a prize won’t leave empty-handed (so to speak): holders of non-winning envelopes will receive a complimentary order of edamame as a gift.
The more often you frequent Haru Boston, the more envelopes you can collect so come often and come hungry [subject to limit of (1) envelope per person/household per (12) hour period].
More Info: No Purchase Necessary. Must be 18 or older. Most participants will receive complimentary order of edamame. Odds of winning a prize are approximately 1:6. Subject to Official Rules posted at Haru Boston.
4) Eddie Huang, chef and owner of the critically-acclaimed BaoHaus in New York’s East Village, is bringing his beloved Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine to Boston, joining Big Night Entertainment Group’s Executive Chef Kevin Long in the Empire kitchen to create a special feast. Co-hosted by Long and Huang, the Thursday, March 14 event will kick off a visiting celebrity chef series showcasing Chef Long’s talents alongside some of today’s top chefs.
The $50 dinner will be a unique opportunity to experience Huang’s and Long’s cuisine in a stylish setting at an incredibly accessible price. Combining Empire’s hip atmosphere and lavish cuisine with BaoHaus’ authentic neighborhood feel, guests will receive an experience unlike any other. The menu will include items from Huang’s proprietary menu, including the Chairman Bao, the Uncle Jesse Bao and Coffin Bao Fried Chicken with Spicy, Tingly Condensed Milk, alongside signature items like Oxtail Soup with Heirloom Tomatoes and Mung Bean Noodles and Pi Dan Tofu.
Chef Huang – a former lawyer, stand-up comic, author, blogger and media personality – will also be signing his recently published memoir. “Fresh off the Boat” will also be included in the price of dinner. (Books will also be available for purchase and signing to Empire patrons who don’t attend the dinner.)
For reservations, please call 617-295-0001.
5) Irish eyes will be smiling when The Beehive presents their 6th annual St. Patrick’s Day festivities on Sunday, March 17 from 5pm-1am. St. Patrick’s Day at The Beehive means an evening of authentic entertainment including performances from Boston-based and lively Irish music performers, Irish inspired à la carte food & drink specials from Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey, Tyronnell Irish Whiskey and Connemara Irish Whiskey, and an evening like only The Beehive can create.
The claim from inside the ‘hive’ is that while there will be plenty of surprises, this will not be your typical Irish fest. “No green beer…but what we are planning is a sophisticated evening of amazing Irish comfort food and authentic, world-class, Irish entertainment for a mature audience,” said Co-Owner, Jack Bardy.
This year at the ‘hive,’ a “special guest” performance will kick of the night of Irish filled festivities at 5:30pm. Husband-wife duo Matt & Shannon Heaton will then bring their shared musical experience and love for Boston’s Irish music scene to the stage at 8:00PM. Boston-based, Matt has made his musical home in Boston’s Irish scene while Shannon has co-founded Boston’s Celtic Music Fest and teaches for Boston’s Comhaltas. Their modern take on traditional centuries-old Irish songs, which features Irish flute- and guitar-driven tunes and traditional Irish-style singing, will bring out emotion and Irish pride from the Irish and non-Irish alike. Matt and Shannon’s entertaining and organic onstage banter is almost good as the music (almost)!
In addition to serving the regular menu, Chef Rebecca Newell has created several à la carte specials including: Corned Beef & "Cabbage" Flatbread with Sauerkraut & Cheese, Finaan Haddie Smoked Fish & Chips with Malt Vinegar Aioli & Slaw and Grilled Lamb Chops with Colcannon Mashed Potatoes just to name a few. Along with The Beehive’s regular libations, the bar will mix traditional Irish cocktails with the best of Kilbeggan’s Irish Whiskey, Tyronnell’s 10 year Port Cask and Connemara’s 12 year Single Malt.
Dinner reservations are recommended, no cover charge, both the upstairs and downstairs bars will be open for service.
6) This March experience wines from the different regions of the world at Tuscan Kitchen’s weekly Regional Wine Tasting Series. Every Wednesday from 6pm-8:30pm, Tuscan Brands’ Wine Director Joe Comforti will lead guests on a special tour as they sip and swirl their way through different wine regions across the globe. For only $20 per person ( tax & gratuity not included) guests will enjoy various regional wine samples accompanied by Salumi e Formaggi and artisanal Hand-crafted Breads from Tuscan Market bakery. Held upstairs in The Wine Bar, this series is the perfect excuse to relax midweek while enjoying wine from distinguished wine producers.
March 6th, 2013: Tuscany, Italy
March 13th, 2013: A World Tour
March 20th, 2013: Piedmont, Italy
March 27th, 2013: A Tour of Italy
Reservations accepted for parties of seven or more. Call-ahead seating is available for parties smaller than seven. Simply call (603) 952-4875 before leaving your home or office and if on a wait, you will be added to wait list ensuring priority seating. Upon arrival, please check in with the host at the front door. *There may be an additional wait when you arrive.
7) Since its opening in fall 2012, Belly Wine Bar in Kendall Square has quickly gained a following as a destination for offbeat, eccentric and hard-to-find European wines. This spring, the team at Belly will introduce some playful new food offerings for groups of all sizes that will guarantee a full belly and a seat at the restaurant (these munchies are reservation-only). So shake up your typical vino and cheese duo with gooey fondue, fried chicken and wine pairings and Sardinian lamb arm + a leg-style!
Seasonal special menus include:
Fondue for Your Crew
$14 per person
February - May
Get your dunk on with dip-able brussels sprouts, EVOO roasted potatoes, grilled focaccia, endive and apples, all ready for plunging into a gooey bowl of Spring Brook Farm Reading Raclette, Emmentaler and Gruyere.
Arm + A Leg: Lamb Jam
$62 per person
Begins March 1
Chef Robert Grant’s signature whole-animal spread switches gears for spring with a Sardinian lamb feast. Belly up to communal tables with your friends for four courses of baller carnivorous fare like lamb neck with salsa verde and fregola sarda, sticky glazed short ribs, whole wood-roasted leg of lamb, and Pecorino Calcagno with honey and nuts.
Reservations: Available for groups of 4-12 people. Please give at least 48 hours’ notice. All Arm + A Leg reservations must be made at: http://www.bellywinebar.com/reservations.
Fried Chicken and Orange Wine
$25 per person; $50 per person with flight of wine
May - September
KFC Belly-style: Killer Fried Chicken and Orange wine. A bucket of fried chicken (hot or cold), flight of orange vino and all the bird-loving extras (biscuits, pickles and citrusy fennel + radicchio slaw) enjoyed with your friends in your flip-flops on the patio.
Reservations: Available for groups of 4-8 people on the patio or in the dining room. Online reservations available beginning May 1.
Adrian Bridge, Fladgate & How Port Facilitates Conversation
"Port is the oil of good conversation."
--Adrian Bridge
After dinner, when people wish to relax and mellow out, is probably the most common time for Port to be enjoyed. Once it might have been just a group of men, ensconced in a library or study, smoking cigars and drinking Port while they discussed world events, as well as more personal matters. That probably still happens in some places however the general nature of Port consumers has changed, and both men and women now enjoy a glass of Port.
Sipping Port often accompanies good conversation, maybe a bit less inhibited than what would have occurred earlier at dinner. People might fear to discuss topics such as politics and sex over their apertifs, but at the end of the night, with a strong glass of Port, the walls start dropping. Few topics remain taboo and people are more apt to let their hair down, to be more willing to discuss anything. In that respect, it reminds me of an ancient Greek symposium.
Adrian Bridge, the CEO of the Fladgate Partnership, is one of the most important men in the Port industry and he was in Boston last week. I had the opportunity to dine with him and sip some Ports at The Top of the Hub. It was an enjoyable and informative evening, providing a glimpse into the Port industry as well as a deeper understanding of the man himself.
Adrian was born in Belleville, Ontario in 1963 and twenty years later, in 1983, he was commissioned into the 1st Queen’s Dragoon Guards. After serving in the military for five years, he took a much quieter position at an investment bank. However, in 1994, his career would take another drastic change, and he would embrace the world of Port.
Back in 1982, Adrian met his wife, Natasha, who is the daughter of Alistair Robertson, the owner and chairman of the Fladgate Partnership. Eventually, in 1994, Alistair asked Adrian to enter the family business so Natasha and he moved to Portugal. In 2000, Adrian became the Managing Director of the Taylor Fonseca Port Group which soon grew with the purchase of Croft Port and Delaforce Port in 2001. The company became reorganized as the Fladgate Partnership, with Adrian as its CEO. Natasha also plays a significant role in the company as the Chief Blender.
Adrian is not resting on his laurels and seems perpetually busy with new endeavors. For example, he created a new style of Port, Croft Pink, and other producers have since followed suit, producing their own pink Ports. In 2010, he opened a new luxury hotel, The Yeatman, which has already earned numerous awards for everything from their wine cellar to their spa. The photos on their website show an absolutely gorgeous hotel and the amenities include a Michelin star restaurant, a huge wine cellar concentrating on Portuguese wines, a compelling spa, and much more.
Their wine cellar includes over 1100 different Portuguese wines and I have reviewed their 2012 Winter Wine Edition, a list of 82 Portuguese wines that are available by the glass, priced from 5-100 Euros. Not many places have that many wines available by the glass. It is a fascinating list, broken down into interesting categories such as "The Groundbreakers" and "The Irreverants." Sparkling wines, Whites, Reds, Rosé, Port, Madeira, and Dessert wines. It is also cool that the hotel does not sell only Fladgate Partnership Ports, but also sells their competitors' Ports.
Though it might seem Adrian is a workaholic, he makes time to engage in one of his other passions, mountain climbing. That is a challenging pastime, and Adrian often brings Port with him to enjoy once he reaches the summit. He has even climbed a mountain in Antarctica, toasting the completion with Port, though his biggest worry had been the extreme cold freezing the Port so he needed to boost the alcohol so it could survive the harsh conditions.
In the U.S., the Fladgate Partnership dominates the Port market, accounting for about 28% of Port sales. Their Port shipments to the U.S. rose 11% in 2011 and partial numbers for 2012, through August, indicate another 5% increase. Aged Tawny Ports have seen very strong growth, especially to restaurants, as they seem to be an easier sell to patrons rather than Vintage Port. Port sales to restaurant have generally remained steady each month, indicating little seasonal variation. However, Port remains a niche beverage, one which many more people need to drink and explore.
Though overall, the Port industry has seen some numerical decreases, they have largely affected only the cheap, bulk Ports. The amount of quality Port has actually been increasing, though Adrian believes the Port business could still survive even without Vintage Port. While high quality vintage Bordeaux and Burgundy is made every year, Fladgate only produces Vintage Port approximately three times a decade. It is the fine wine collectors, those who collect Bordeaux and Burgundy, who purchase much of the Vintage Port as they are the ones willing to lay down their wines for years. In addition, the amount of Vintage Port is minuscule when you compare it to the amount of high-end Bordeaux and Burgundy that is produced.
Adrian especially noted a significant difference between Bordeaux/Burgundy and Port, summing up his position as "No fruit, no wine." Good Port, even Vintage, should still present a strong fruit component even when it is young. Sometimes though, when you have a young Bordeaux or Burgundy, those which are intended to be aged for a long time, they present very little, if any fruit. You are told you must wait to drink them, that they must be properly aged before they are drinkable. Adrian does not agree that is the way wine should be. All such wines should still present fruit, even at a young age.
What differentiates Fladgate Partnerhship Ports from other Port companies? There are a few different reasons and they can be significant. First, there is a different mindset at Fladgate, where they desire to produce Vintage Port from every grape. Thus, there is a careful attention to detail, a concern to treat each vineyard as if it were special. Some other companies view certain vineyards and grapes as only for their cheap, low quality Ports. And that may very well be reflected in how they treat such matters, never seeking to better the grapes, vineyards and Port.
Second, only about 1% of Port production is still done using the traditional practice of foot treading grapes in stone lagares. Of that 1%, about 60% of it is done by the Fladgate companies, and about 20% of their total production uses foot treading. All of their Vintage Port, about 5000 cases, is produced with foot treading. As they foot tread around 20,000 cases in total, some of that will end up in their nonvintage Ports.
They conduct the foot treading in six different ways, despite the fact it is very labor intensive and more costly. Tests were conducted with mechanical treaders but they ultimately determined that foot treading worked best. They do not fully understand the reasons why foot treading works so well, and if they did, maybe they could replicate it. As long as it produces superior quality Port, they will continue this practice.
Third, an important element, often overlooked, in the production of port is the neutral spirit used to fortify it. Consider that 20% of a Port bottle consists of that spirit so it is obviously a significant factor. If you use cheap spirits in your Port, the quality of the Port can degrade with time, and sometimes quickly. Fladgate now acquires their spirit from a company in Bordeaux, a high quality and expensive spirit, but which they feel is essential for the quality of their Ports. Any item is only as good as the quality of its essential ingredients so that using a high quality spirit is warranted.
One of the biggest current challenges for Port producers has to do with spirits. Back in 2008, the European Union passed wine reforms which led to the phasing out of distillation subsidies. About 200,000 hectares of vineyards were pulled up in response. Without the subsidies, there has been a shortage of these neutral spirits and subsequently the cost has increased, and now may be close to 4 Euros per liter. Who will then pay for those increased costs? It would be tough to place that cost on the shoulders of consumers, especially for the cheaper Ports. The higher end Ports are more capable of increasing prices without a significant reaction from consumers. Adrian seems hopeful that the shortage will peak in 2013, topping out the price increases.
As many wine regions seem to be concerned about climate change, I asked Adrian about how it affected Fladgate, if at all. Adrian doesn't believe it has much impact in Portugal, especially as Portugal is already a hot region. If anything, climate change might cause the weather to be a bit more unpredictable. Fladgate has not instituted any specific changes to their usual practices in response to concerns about climate change.
Their irrigation issues have more to do with cost than climate change. He explained that the Douro is actually a series of lakes and not a river. Runoff accumulates in these lakes so it is imperative to use less chemicals in the vineyards, so as to not pollute the lakes. In addition, all of those chemicals are expensive, another good reason not to use them. Adrian hopes to convince other producers to use less chemicals as well, though he wants to lead by example rather than just preach to his colleagues and competitors.
What does Fladgate plan for the future? Adrian indicated that they have no current plans to produce Douro table wines unlike many of their competitors. As they still see growth in high quality Port, they feel their efforts are best directed to continue producing great Port. He wouldn't rule out the possibility that could change one day, but it won't occur in the near future. They are continuing to develop new markets, such as in places like South Africa and parts of South America. On a smaller note, they have opened a new wine store and began creating wine clubs. Growth is coming in many different aspects of their business. In addition, as the Port industry consolidates, there is the possibility Fladgate could acquire more Port companies.
A question on the mind of many Port lovers is whether Fladgate will declare 2011 to be a Vintage or not. That decision has not yet been made though there is some optimism that it will be declared as a Vintage. Even if so, it is unsure how much Vintage Port would be produced, and it is likely to be a smaller amount than previous vintages.
On a more personal level, I asked Adrian about his usual Port consumption at home. Though he does not drink Port every evening, it is a regular element of his life and the most common Port he drinks at home is the Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. That is certainly an excellent choice, one that would appeal to many Port lovers, and would probably convince many others to start enjoying Port. When Adrian holds parties at his home, he breaks out the Vintage Port, usually something from the 1960s or 1970s. So how do you get on his invite list?
--Adrian Bridge
After dinner, when people wish to relax and mellow out, is probably the most common time for Port to be enjoyed. Once it might have been just a group of men, ensconced in a library or study, smoking cigars and drinking Port while they discussed world events, as well as more personal matters. That probably still happens in some places however the general nature of Port consumers has changed, and both men and women now enjoy a glass of Port.
Sipping Port often accompanies good conversation, maybe a bit less inhibited than what would have occurred earlier at dinner. People might fear to discuss topics such as politics and sex over their apertifs, but at the end of the night, with a strong glass of Port, the walls start dropping. Few topics remain taboo and people are more apt to let their hair down, to be more willing to discuss anything. In that respect, it reminds me of an ancient Greek symposium.
Adrian Bridge, the CEO of the Fladgate Partnership, is one of the most important men in the Port industry and he was in Boston last week. I had the opportunity to dine with him and sip some Ports at The Top of the Hub. It was an enjoyable and informative evening, providing a glimpse into the Port industry as well as a deeper understanding of the man himself.
Adrian was born in Belleville, Ontario in 1963 and twenty years later, in 1983, he was commissioned into the 1st Queen’s Dragoon Guards. After serving in the military for five years, he took a much quieter position at an investment bank. However, in 1994, his career would take another drastic change, and he would embrace the world of Port.
Back in 1982, Adrian met his wife, Natasha, who is the daughter of Alistair Robertson, the owner and chairman of the Fladgate Partnership. Eventually, in 1994, Alistair asked Adrian to enter the family business so Natasha and he moved to Portugal. In 2000, Adrian became the Managing Director of the Taylor Fonseca Port Group which soon grew with the purchase of Croft Port and Delaforce Port in 2001. The company became reorganized as the Fladgate Partnership, with Adrian as its CEO. Natasha also plays a significant role in the company as the Chief Blender.
Adrian is not resting on his laurels and seems perpetually busy with new endeavors. For example, he created a new style of Port, Croft Pink, and other producers have since followed suit, producing their own pink Ports. In 2010, he opened a new luxury hotel, The Yeatman, which has already earned numerous awards for everything from their wine cellar to their spa. The photos on their website show an absolutely gorgeous hotel and the amenities include a Michelin star restaurant, a huge wine cellar concentrating on Portuguese wines, a compelling spa, and much more.
Their wine cellar includes over 1100 different Portuguese wines and I have reviewed their 2012 Winter Wine Edition, a list of 82 Portuguese wines that are available by the glass, priced from 5-100 Euros. Not many places have that many wines available by the glass. It is a fascinating list, broken down into interesting categories such as "The Groundbreakers" and "The Irreverants." Sparkling wines, Whites, Reds, Rosé, Port, Madeira, and Dessert wines. It is also cool that the hotel does not sell only Fladgate Partnership Ports, but also sells their competitors' Ports.
Though it might seem Adrian is a workaholic, he makes time to engage in one of his other passions, mountain climbing. That is a challenging pastime, and Adrian often brings Port with him to enjoy once he reaches the summit. He has even climbed a mountain in Antarctica, toasting the completion with Port, though his biggest worry had been the extreme cold freezing the Port so he needed to boost the alcohol so it could survive the harsh conditions.
In the U.S., the Fladgate Partnership dominates the Port market, accounting for about 28% of Port sales. Their Port shipments to the U.S. rose 11% in 2011 and partial numbers for 2012, through August, indicate another 5% increase. Aged Tawny Ports have seen very strong growth, especially to restaurants, as they seem to be an easier sell to patrons rather than Vintage Port. Port sales to restaurant have generally remained steady each month, indicating little seasonal variation. However, Port remains a niche beverage, one which many more people need to drink and explore.
Though overall, the Port industry has seen some numerical decreases, they have largely affected only the cheap, bulk Ports. The amount of quality Port has actually been increasing, though Adrian believes the Port business could still survive even without Vintage Port. While high quality vintage Bordeaux and Burgundy is made every year, Fladgate only produces Vintage Port approximately three times a decade. It is the fine wine collectors, those who collect Bordeaux and Burgundy, who purchase much of the Vintage Port as they are the ones willing to lay down their wines for years. In addition, the amount of Vintage Port is minuscule when you compare it to the amount of high-end Bordeaux and Burgundy that is produced.
Adrian especially noted a significant difference between Bordeaux/Burgundy and Port, summing up his position as "No fruit, no wine." Good Port, even Vintage, should still present a strong fruit component even when it is young. Sometimes though, when you have a young Bordeaux or Burgundy, those which are intended to be aged for a long time, they present very little, if any fruit. You are told you must wait to drink them, that they must be properly aged before they are drinkable. Adrian does not agree that is the way wine should be. All such wines should still present fruit, even at a young age.
What differentiates Fladgate Partnerhship Ports from other Port companies? There are a few different reasons and they can be significant. First, there is a different mindset at Fladgate, where they desire to produce Vintage Port from every grape. Thus, there is a careful attention to detail, a concern to treat each vineyard as if it were special. Some other companies view certain vineyards and grapes as only for their cheap, low quality Ports. And that may very well be reflected in how they treat such matters, never seeking to better the grapes, vineyards and Port.
Second, only about 1% of Port production is still done using the traditional practice of foot treading grapes in stone lagares. Of that 1%, about 60% of it is done by the Fladgate companies, and about 20% of their total production uses foot treading. All of their Vintage Port, about 5000 cases, is produced with foot treading. As they foot tread around 20,000 cases in total, some of that will end up in their nonvintage Ports.
They conduct the foot treading in six different ways, despite the fact it is very labor intensive and more costly. Tests were conducted with mechanical treaders but they ultimately determined that foot treading worked best. They do not fully understand the reasons why foot treading works so well, and if they did, maybe they could replicate it. As long as it produces superior quality Port, they will continue this practice.
Third, an important element, often overlooked, in the production of port is the neutral spirit used to fortify it. Consider that 20% of a Port bottle consists of that spirit so it is obviously a significant factor. If you use cheap spirits in your Port, the quality of the Port can degrade with time, and sometimes quickly. Fladgate now acquires their spirit from a company in Bordeaux, a high quality and expensive spirit, but which they feel is essential for the quality of their Ports. Any item is only as good as the quality of its essential ingredients so that using a high quality spirit is warranted.
One of the biggest current challenges for Port producers has to do with spirits. Back in 2008, the European Union passed wine reforms which led to the phasing out of distillation subsidies. About 200,000 hectares of vineyards were pulled up in response. Without the subsidies, there has been a shortage of these neutral spirits and subsequently the cost has increased, and now may be close to 4 Euros per liter. Who will then pay for those increased costs? It would be tough to place that cost on the shoulders of consumers, especially for the cheaper Ports. The higher end Ports are more capable of increasing prices without a significant reaction from consumers. Adrian seems hopeful that the shortage will peak in 2013, topping out the price increases.
As many wine regions seem to be concerned about climate change, I asked Adrian about how it affected Fladgate, if at all. Adrian doesn't believe it has much impact in Portugal, especially as Portugal is already a hot region. If anything, climate change might cause the weather to be a bit more unpredictable. Fladgate has not instituted any specific changes to their usual practices in response to concerns about climate change.
Their irrigation issues have more to do with cost than climate change. He explained that the Douro is actually a series of lakes and not a river. Runoff accumulates in these lakes so it is imperative to use less chemicals in the vineyards, so as to not pollute the lakes. In addition, all of those chemicals are expensive, another good reason not to use them. Adrian hopes to convince other producers to use less chemicals as well, though he wants to lead by example rather than just preach to his colleagues and competitors.
What does Fladgate plan for the future? Adrian indicated that they have no current plans to produce Douro table wines unlike many of their competitors. As they still see growth in high quality Port, they feel their efforts are best directed to continue producing great Port. He wouldn't rule out the possibility that could change one day, but it won't occur in the near future. They are continuing to develop new markets, such as in places like South Africa and parts of South America. On a smaller note, they have opened a new wine store and began creating wine clubs. Growth is coming in many different aspects of their business. In addition, as the Port industry consolidates, there is the possibility Fladgate could acquire more Port companies.
A question on the mind of many Port lovers is whether Fladgate will declare 2011 to be a Vintage or not. That decision has not yet been made though there is some optimism that it will be declared as a Vintage. Even if so, it is unsure how much Vintage Port would be produced, and it is likely to be a smaller amount than previous vintages.
On a more personal level, I asked Adrian about his usual Port consumption at home. Though he does not drink Port every evening, it is a regular element of his life and the most common Port he drinks at home is the Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. That is certainly an excellent choice, one that would appeal to many Port lovers, and would probably convince many others to start enjoying Port. When Adrian holds parties at his home, he breaks out the Vintage Port, usually something from the 1960s or 1970s. So how do you get on his invite list?
After dinner, we tasted through five Ports, including three 2009 Vintage Ports (Croft, Fonseca & Taylor Fladgate), a 2007 Taylor Fladgate LBV and a Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny. The 2009 Vintage Ports were fascinating, as each was noticeably different. The Croft was bright and fruity while the Taylor was a bit more closed, though still with subdued fruit notes. The Fonseca impressed, a nice balance of fruit and spice, with a complex and seductive character. These are capable of being enjoyed now, though you might derive even greater pleasure after these have been allowed to age for a time. The 2007 LBV was pleasant, fresh and smooth, with tasty fruit. However, the winner was easily the 20 Year Old, a sublime Port which I have enjoyed greatly on prior occasions.
Grab a bottle of Port, gather together some friends and enjoy the conversation that flows.
Grab a bottle of Port, gather together some friends and enjoy the conversation that flows.
Rant: Get Thee To The Seafood Show!
Seafood is at the crux of some of the most important food issues in the world. The range of seafood topics touches on so many crucial matters, from sustainability to health. Not only is it delicious, but it provides numerous health benefits. It is integral to the economic health of many local businesses, from fishermen to restaurants. The potential extinction of certain fish species is a major concern that needs to be addressed. I have written about many of these issues and soon will have much more fodder for future seafood articles.
This upcoming weekend, March 10-12, the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) returns to the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center. This will be my fourth year in attendance and I cannot recommend enough that food writers should check out this show. Last year, I provided a list of Twelve Things You Should Know about the Seafood Show and that provides a good summary of what you can expect at the show. There will be over 1700 booths with a huge diversity of products and services. You will find representatives from all over the world, from Japan to Mexico, Brazil to Vietnam.
For food writers, the key is that "the seafood show is fertile soil for a myriad of story ideas as each exhibit booth has its own unique and interesting story." This is the place to learn about seafood issues, to talk to numerous seafood businesses, to explore the seafood industry. You should find enough stories here to easily write a dozen articles, if not more. You may also gain sufficient knowledge and information to provide you paths for other seafood stories. In addition, the show is fun, with plenty of tasty seafood samples. As seafood is such a vital subject, why wouldn't you go to this show?
The Seafood Show is held in conjunction with the New England Food Show, where you will find a plethora of food and drink related products and services, from wine to cheese, spirits to locally produced foods. You can easily visit both shows, and the Food Show will give you fodder for even more stories. If you go to both of these shows, you won't be able to complain about writer's block as you won't lack for story ideas.
Go to some of the seafood and food seminars. Sample the countless food and drinks samples that are available. Talk to exhibitors, ask questions and gather information, recipes, booklets and more. Take lots of notes, photos and video.
Why do I care? First, I view our local writers and bloggers as a community and I believe we all benefit by helping each other, giving recommendations for excellent events. Second, I feel that seafood is a vital topic which more people need to write about so that we raise attention to all of its urgent issues. That will benefit all of us in many ways. It is with greater exposure and cooperative efforts that we can cause change in the seafood industry.
So get thee to the seafood show!
This upcoming weekend, March 10-12, the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) returns to the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center. This will be my fourth year in attendance and I cannot recommend enough that food writers should check out this show. Last year, I provided a list of Twelve Things You Should Know about the Seafood Show and that provides a good summary of what you can expect at the show. There will be over 1700 booths with a huge diversity of products and services. You will find representatives from all over the world, from Japan to Mexico, Brazil to Vietnam.
For food writers, the key is that "the seafood show is fertile soil for a myriad of story ideas as each exhibit booth has its own unique and interesting story." This is the place to learn about seafood issues, to talk to numerous seafood businesses, to explore the seafood industry. You should find enough stories here to easily write a dozen articles, if not more. You may also gain sufficient knowledge and information to provide you paths for other seafood stories. In addition, the show is fun, with plenty of tasty seafood samples. As seafood is such a vital subject, why wouldn't you go to this show?
The Seafood Show is held in conjunction with the New England Food Show, where you will find a plethora of food and drink related products and services, from wine to cheese, spirits to locally produced foods. You can easily visit both shows, and the Food Show will give you fodder for even more stories. If you go to both of these shows, you won't be able to complain about writer's block as you won't lack for story ideas.
Go to some of the seafood and food seminars. Sample the countless food and drinks samples that are available. Talk to exhibitors, ask questions and gather information, recipes, booklets and more. Take lots of notes, photos and video.
Why do I care? First, I view our local writers and bloggers as a community and I believe we all benefit by helping each other, giving recommendations for excellent events. Second, I feel that seafood is a vital topic which more people need to write about so that we raise attention to all of its urgent issues. That will benefit all of us in many ways. It is with greater exposure and cooperative efforts that we can cause change in the seafood industry.
So get thee to the seafood show!
Gascon Winery: Malbec To Give People Joy
Nesti Bajda (pictured above), the winemaker at the Don Miguel Gascón winery in Mendoza, Argentina, told me that in the end, he makes wines to give people joy. Nesti also loves to cook, and his motivation is the same, to give people joy. No one can argue that is not a worthy motivation. Maybe more winemakers need to understand that should be their basic rationale.
Earlier this week, I was invited to dine with Nesti at Stephi's on Tremont, as well as to taste three of his wines. The Don Miguel Gascón winery dates back to 1884, founded by Don Miguel Escorihuela Gascón, and it may have been the first winery, during the 1940s, to produce Argentina's first 100% Malbec wine. Change came to the winery in 1993, when a group of investors, led by the famed Nicolas Catena, purchased the winery and currently Ernesto Catena is the winery president. With Ernesto at the helm, one can feel confident that justice will be done to these wines.
The winery is the only one still located in the city of Mendoza and their focus is on Malbec, the signature grape of Argentina. They own a couple vineyards, one being Biodynamic, and with these vineyards they generally focus on higher end wines and experimentation. In addition, they purchase grapes from over 150 vineyards, most which are small, about twenty acres or less. Their goal with their wines is to show what Argentina is like, to capture the essence of Malbec.
Nesti Bajda, of Slovenian ancestry, was born and raised in Mendoza. He originally studied accountacy but soon learned that he hated paperwork so knew he had to find another career. Thus, he decided to try agricultural school and ended up volunteering at the school's vineyards, where he discovered his true passion. Nesti mentioned that his father and grandfather were both coopers, barrel makers, so he likes to say that "they made barrels and now he fills them." In 2003, Nesti began working at Don Miguel Gascón, and has even helped to plant vineyards at Alma Negra. Though he has been heavily involved in advanced technology to assist vineyard growth and wine making, his desire remains simple, to make wine that brings joy.
About 70% of the winery's production is sold within Argentina, and only a few of their wines are exported, being distributed in Massachusetts by Martignetti Companies. Nesti wants their wines to reflect tradition and history and noted that 2011 was the best vintage he has seen at the winery. The weather in 2011 was just perfect for their grapes. The result was that the wines of 2011 possess a "beautiful natural acidity" which is not common in Argentina, making them even better food wines than usual.
I got to taste three of their Malbec based wines and all of them paired well with my delicious lunch of Smokey Bacon Macaroni & Cheese.
The 2011 Colosal ($15) is a blend of 61% Malbec, 16% Bonarda, 13% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The name translates as "Colossal" and reflects the history of the winery as this was similar to a high quality blend they made in the late 1800s. Back then, wine was sold in barrels, each possessing a large label that depicted a huge, mustached man who held a barrel under each arm. It has only been in the last twenty years or so that Argentina wineries started commonly making single varietals. The majority of this wine was aged for fifteen months in a combination of French and American oak, and it has an alcohol content of 14.1%.
The Colosal has a dark red color with a pleasing aroma of dark fruit and spice. On the palate, it is full bodied, with smooth tannins, and presents an elegant balance. Delicious plum, black cherry and spice notes dominate the taste and it offers good complexity for the price. The Malbec plays the starring role and the international grapes support the Malbec without trying to steal the show. An excellent value wine, this should appeal to many wine lovers.
The basic 2011 Malbec ($15) is produced from 100% Malbec, sees only a touch of oak for some added complexity and has an alcohol content of 13.9%. This is an introductory Malbec, created to show the "true" Malbec, the typical flavor profile. It is inky dark with an intense aroma of black fruit, violets and deep spice. On the palate, it was a simple but smooth and delicious wine, with tasty flavors of plum and blackberries, with a spicy backbone. An easy drinking wine that also offers a good value.
The 2010 Malbec Reserva ($25) usually is a blend of mostly Malbec, with small percentages of Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, but for this vintage it is mostly Malbec with about 4%-5% Petite Verdot and no Cabernet Franc. The grapes are sourced from the same vineyards as the basic Malbec but they selected the best grapes for the Reserva. It was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak and has an alcohol content of 14.26%. The wine is more complex than the basic Malbec, though containing a fairly similar flavor profile. The taste is also deeper, richer and spicier though still maintaining a delightful elegance. Unlike the basic Malbec, you will also find some chocolate notes, especially on the finish. This is a wine that shows the potential of Malbec, indicating its potential complexity and showcasing the skills of the winemaker. Highly recommended.
I think Nesti succeeded in making three wines which will bring you joy.
Earlier this week, I was invited to dine with Nesti at Stephi's on Tremont, as well as to taste three of his wines. The Don Miguel Gascón winery dates back to 1884, founded by Don Miguel Escorihuela Gascón, and it may have been the first winery, during the 1940s, to produce Argentina's first 100% Malbec wine. Change came to the winery in 1993, when a group of investors, led by the famed Nicolas Catena, purchased the winery and currently Ernesto Catena is the winery president. With Ernesto at the helm, one can feel confident that justice will be done to these wines.
The winery is the only one still located in the city of Mendoza and their focus is on Malbec, the signature grape of Argentina. They own a couple vineyards, one being Biodynamic, and with these vineyards they generally focus on higher end wines and experimentation. In addition, they purchase grapes from over 150 vineyards, most which are small, about twenty acres or less. Their goal with their wines is to show what Argentina is like, to capture the essence of Malbec.
Nesti Bajda, of Slovenian ancestry, was born and raised in Mendoza. He originally studied accountacy but soon learned that he hated paperwork so knew he had to find another career. Thus, he decided to try agricultural school and ended up volunteering at the school's vineyards, where he discovered his true passion. Nesti mentioned that his father and grandfather were both coopers, barrel makers, so he likes to say that "they made barrels and now he fills them." In 2003, Nesti began working at Don Miguel Gascón, and has even helped to plant vineyards at Alma Negra. Though he has been heavily involved in advanced technology to assist vineyard growth and wine making, his desire remains simple, to make wine that brings joy.
About 70% of the winery's production is sold within Argentina, and only a few of their wines are exported, being distributed in Massachusetts by Martignetti Companies. Nesti wants their wines to reflect tradition and history and noted that 2011 was the best vintage he has seen at the winery. The weather in 2011 was just perfect for their grapes. The result was that the wines of 2011 possess a "beautiful natural acidity" which is not common in Argentina, making them even better food wines than usual.
I got to taste three of their Malbec based wines and all of them paired well with my delicious lunch of Smokey Bacon Macaroni & Cheese.
The 2011 Colosal ($15) is a blend of 61% Malbec, 16% Bonarda, 13% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The name translates as "Colossal" and reflects the history of the winery as this was similar to a high quality blend they made in the late 1800s. Back then, wine was sold in barrels, each possessing a large label that depicted a huge, mustached man who held a barrel under each arm. It has only been in the last twenty years or so that Argentina wineries started commonly making single varietals. The majority of this wine was aged for fifteen months in a combination of French and American oak, and it has an alcohol content of 14.1%.
The Colosal has a dark red color with a pleasing aroma of dark fruit and spice. On the palate, it is full bodied, with smooth tannins, and presents an elegant balance. Delicious plum, black cherry and spice notes dominate the taste and it offers good complexity for the price. The Malbec plays the starring role and the international grapes support the Malbec without trying to steal the show. An excellent value wine, this should appeal to many wine lovers.
The basic 2011 Malbec ($15) is produced from 100% Malbec, sees only a touch of oak for some added complexity and has an alcohol content of 13.9%. This is an introductory Malbec, created to show the "true" Malbec, the typical flavor profile. It is inky dark with an intense aroma of black fruit, violets and deep spice. On the palate, it was a simple but smooth and delicious wine, with tasty flavors of plum and blackberries, with a spicy backbone. An easy drinking wine that also offers a good value.
The 2010 Malbec Reserva ($25) usually is a blend of mostly Malbec, with small percentages of Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, but for this vintage it is mostly Malbec with about 4%-5% Petite Verdot and no Cabernet Franc. The grapes are sourced from the same vineyards as the basic Malbec but they selected the best grapes for the Reserva. It was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak and has an alcohol content of 14.26%. The wine is more complex than the basic Malbec, though containing a fairly similar flavor profile. The taste is also deeper, richer and spicier though still maintaining a delightful elegance. Unlike the basic Malbec, you will also find some chocolate notes, especially on the finish. This is a wine that shows the potential of Malbec, indicating its potential complexity and showcasing the skills of the winemaker. Highly recommended.
I think Nesti succeeded in making three wines which will bring you joy.
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