Boston Wine Expo: 90+ Cellars & Rioja

While perusing the rows of wine exhibitors at the Boston Wine Expo, I found myself at the spacious tasting tables of 90+ Cellars. Brett Vankoski, pictured above, is one of the co-founders of 90+ Cellars and is personable and down-to-earth, an excellent advocate for his wines. In short, 90+ Cellars purchases excess wine from established wineries all around the world, and then rebottles them under their own label, at a reduced price. I've positively reviewed a number of their wines over the years, and found many of them to be excellent values. At the wine store where I work, Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, the 90+Cellars wines are very popular with consumers.

Brett led me through a tasting of several of their wines, some of their newest releases, and I've chosen two to highlight here. Coincidentally, both are Rhône blends, one white and one red. Locally, many wine stores sell 90+ Cellars wines so both of these wines should be readily available.

The 2012 Côtes du Rhône, Lot 103, is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne. The wine was originally priced at $15.99 but 90+ Cellars has priced it at $11.99. The wine has alluring aromatics, with floral elements, which bring to mind a spring day, and on the palate, there is a delightful blend of flavors, including pear, citrus, and some minerality with a hint of honey, though the wine remains dry and crisp. A pleasure to drink, this would be enjoyable on its own or paired with a salad, seafood, or even chicken, At this price, it is an excellent value and highly recommended.

The 2011 Vacqueyras, Lot 104, is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. The wine was originally priced at $27.99 but 90+ Cellars has priced it at $19.99. This is a dark and intense wine, silky smooth on the palate with pleasant and complex tastes of black cherry and ripe plum with a spicy backbone. Muscular yet elegant, this wine possesses a lengthy and satisfying finish. It is best drank with food, from a thick steak to wild boar, or even a hearty Bolognese.

So check out these, and other wines, from 90+ Cellars.

As a long time lover of Spanish wine, I took some time to check out the offerings from Rioja. I have visited the region in the past, reviewed numerous Rioja wines, and recommended Rioja at the wine shop where I work. The Rioja booth had four separate tables, and presented a nice tasting progression, starting with white wines and moving up to Gran Reserva red wines.

For the summer, the 2012 Cvne Monopole Blanco ($12) would be a nice choice. Made from Viura, this wine is crisp and clean, with a nice blend of flavors of grapefruit, herbs and minerality. With plenty of complexity for the price, this is a refreshing wine that would be enjoyable on its own or paired with lighter fare. The 2012 Bodegas Ontanon Clarete Rosé ($10) is another fun summer wine, though it would be enjoyable year round too. A blend of Tempranillo and Viura, it is dry with subtle red fruit flavors and some herbal notes. It reminds me of some Provence Rosé, as it is dry and more elegant.

The 2010 Ramon Bilbao Limited Edition ($20), made from 100% Tempranillo, has a medium red color and a pleasant aroma of cherry and spice. On the palate, there are flavors of red and black fruits, with a little earthiness and touch of spice. A tasty and easy drinking wine. The 2008 Bodegas Luis Alba Parcela #5, also made from 100% Tempranillo, is a bigger wine, with stronger tannins and more intense flavors. Your preference will depend on whether you want a lighter wine or not.

The Gran Reserva Red wines, which must be aged for at least five years, were impressive. The 2005 Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva was elegant and complex, with a dominant earthiness, black fruit flavors, intriguing spice notes and a very lengthy finish. A wonderful wine that earns a hearty recommendation. The 2001 Bodegas Ontanon Gran Reserva was equally as compelling, sharing many of the same characteristics except there was less earthiness and more herbal notes on the palate.

Rioja rocks!

Rant: Don't Bottle Yourself In

When you peruse the shelves of a wine store and see a wine in a Tetra Pak, what do you think about it? Do you pass by it, thinking it contains lesser wine? Will you only buy wine that comes in a bottle? If so, why are you such a wine snob? Stop ignoring the Tetra Pak.

In some respects, you can consider wine in a Tetra Pak to be akin to grownup juice box, but without a straw (though I'd love to see one come with a straw). Tetra Paks are better for the environment in a number of ways, making it a more sustainable choice than a bottle. It is said: "Tetra Pak cartons* use 54% less energy, create 80% less greenhouse gasses, produce 60% less solid waste volume and also have 92% less package weight, compared to a 750ml glass wine bottle." A Tetra Pak gives you more wine, as it contains a liter of wine rather than the 750ml of the average wine bottle. They are portable and convenient, not requiring a corkscrew. You can take them to the beach, on a camping trip, on a boat, and much more with the worries of glass.

I have previously trumpeted the Tetra Pak wines of Y+B Wines, which sell a variety of organic wines from all over the world. No matter how good the packaging, the wine inside them has to be good and Y+B Wines proved that delicious wine can come in a Tetra Pak. You just need to get past any preconceptions you have that wine must come in a glass bottle.

This past Saturday, I poured samples of a couple Tetra Pak wines at Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose. The wines were from Fuoristrada, which is owned by Michael Schmelzer of Monte Bernardi, a Biodynamic winery in Tuscany. They now produce two organic wines in Tetra Pak, a white and a red, a Grillo from Sicily and a Sangiovese from Tuscany. Both wines, priced at $15 for the one liter Tetra Pak, are good values and I recommend them both.

I found consumers to be initially curious about the Tetra Paks, even a little wary, but that soon changed once I discussed the benefits of Tetra Paks. They were especially pleased with the convenience of the Tetra Paks, and discussed how great they would be this summer. And once they tasted the wines, they were even more convinced, as they enjoyed the flavors of the wines. It was clear that there was ignorance about the existence of Tetra Paks, but that consumers were open minded about the possibilities once it was explained to them.

So throw away your prejudices about drinking only wine in a bottle. There are alternative packagings that offer different benefits, and the wine within them is just as good as many bottled wines.

Boston Wine Expo: Vintage Reserve Lounge Reviews

As I previously discussed, I visited the Vintner's Reserve Lounge at the Boston Wine Expo for the first time since 2008. The event has seen some significant changes since that time, and it is now a much better event. From more (and tasty) food to a better tasting format, the Expo appears to have listened to prior complaints and worked towards improving matters. I still would like to see more diversity in the wine selections, and hopefully that too will change in time.

With approximately 100 high-end wines available for sampling, about 60% which were from the U.S. (primarily California), there was much to savor and enjoy. For example, it was a real pleasure to taste a 1979 Bordeaux (pictured above), which you might find for $150 or so. You don't often get the chance to taste such a wine. I am now going to highlight three tables of wines, those which most impressed me for their quality and value. All of the wines I will discuss cost under $100, and as low as $28. Thus, they are within the reach of most consumers, even if only as a special splurge.

Though I enjoy French Burgundy, I'll admit to much ignorance about the region and its producers. Sure, I understand the general basics and know some of the larger producers, but I certainly know little about its smaller producers and best values. What I must do then is to rely on the greater knowledge and experience of others, such as trusted wine shop staff. Or an importer like Elden Selections.

I had the pleasure of meeting Dennis Sherman of Elden Selections, an importer of small production, estate bottled Burgundy. Though from the U.S., Dennis has spent about 30 years in Burgundy, bringing an insiders view of the region to American consumers. Back in 1983, Dennis and Eleanor Garvin packed up and moved to France, hoping to work in the restaurant industry, though their first job ended up being at a vineyard. Eventually, they bought a barge, Le Papillon, which could carry six passengers. In 1995, they started Elden Wine, mainly to obtain wines for their barge passengers, but their wine business soon grew. And now you can get their wines delivered to your door, though maybe not quite yet in Massachusetts.

After tasting five selections, both white and red Burgundies, from the Elden portfolio, I was impressed with what they presented. And once I delved deeper into the backgrounds of these wines, the stories behind the wineries seemed compelling. With around 90 selections, their portfolio is priced from $20-$180, meaning there are bottles for whatever your price point. I also found their website to be well done, containing plenty of information about their wines.

I started with the 2010 Domaine Borgeot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'Morgeot' ($75). Pascal and Laurent Borgeot, brothers, are fourth generation winemakers and have about 48 acres of vines, the majority being 30 years old or older. They also use only organic fertilizers. The "Morgeot" was crisp and clean, elegant and complex, with intriguing tastes of pear, peach, and an underlying spice component. It was rich and compelling, with a lengthy and satisfying finish. When you taste this wine, you understand the amazing potential of superb Chardonnay.

The 2011 Maison Capitain-Gagnerot Ladoix 1er Cru 'Les Grechons' ($60) is from a winery founded in 1802 by Simon Gagnerot. It was one of the first wineries in Burgundy to offer estate-bottled wine directly to the public, rather than through a negociant. Again, this wine was crisp and clean, elegant and complex, though its taste was more green apple and minerality. It was not as rich as the Morgeot, going for a leaner style which was also compelling.

Onto the red wines. The 2010 Maison Capitain-Gagnerot Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru 'Montottes' ($75) is made from grapes on vines that are 67 years old and it was aged in 10% new oak. With a light red color, the nose was composed of alluring red fruit aromas with hints of spice and earth. On the palate, it shows some concentration of red fruit flavors, blended with earthy elements, yet still presenting elegance rather than being too muscular and powerful. Plenty of complexity, well balanced, and a lingering finish.

The 2009 Domaine Jean Fery Vougeot 1er Cru 'Las Cras' ($90) is from a winery with a line extended back to the mid-1800s. Since 1994, the winery has been biodynamic, though not certified, and and has conducted several improvements during the last 20 years. I found this wine to possess a bit more power than the Montottes, but still possessed of a certain elegance as well. Its red fruit flavors were deeper and the earthiness was more prominent, along with a touch of minerality. And like the Montottes, there was lots of complexity, a nice balance, and a lingering finish. Another winner.

My favorite of the five wines though was clearly the 2005 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay 1er Cru 'Clo des Chenes' ($85). The winery, located in the southern part of the Cote de Beaune, has seen five generations and consists of about 22 acres of vines. They also hold many of their vintages, aging them, prior to release. This wine was a marvel from my my sniff of its aromas, a killer melange of earth and fruit, promising the best of Burgundy. It too was elegant and ethereal, with a blend of complex flavors that seduced my palate. Each sip seemed to bring something different and the flavors seemed to last forever. A most impressive wine which is going to please any Burgundy lover. This is also a wine which definitely is worth the price. Highly recommended.

If you love Burgundy, then you must check out Elden Selections,

Ole Imports, a partnership between Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte, imports an excellent portfolio of Spanish wines and I have previously enjoyed a number of their selections. At the Vintner's Reserve Lounge, they presented several wines new to me which both pleased and impressed.

The 2011 Quinta da Muradella Alanda Blanco ($35) is from the Monterrei D.O., and is a blend of Godello, Treixadura and Doña Blanca. The winery conducts organic farming and winemaker Raul Perez consulted on this project. Less than 1000 cases of this wine were produced. With am aromatic nose, the palate delighted with crisp, clean flavors of lush pear and citrus with a vein of minerality. Nice complexity and a pleasing finish. Simply delicious, I could easily enjoy this on its own or paired with seafood or a light chicken dish.

Perez once again impresses with the 2011 Raul Perez Vico ($48) a killer Mencia from the Bierzo D.O. Another small production wine, only about 500 cases, this dark red wine with compelling aromatics, was stunning. It possesses a complex and concentrated blend of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry with elements of spice, smoke and earthiness. With well managed tannins, it was silky smooth and enticing, with a lingering finish meant to impress. One of the best Mencia wines I have tasted in quite some time. Highly recommended.

The 2008 Vinyes Domènech Teixar Garnacha Vella, produced in the Monstant D.O., is produced from 100% Garnacha Peluda, which makes it a rarity. The winery has a 42 acre estate., with vines planted as far back as 1946, and is organically farmed. This was a bigger, more muscular wine with intense black and blue fruit, lots of spice, a bit of smoke and a rustic sense. A very interesting and well balanced wine. I definitely would choose this to pair with wild boar or a steak.

The 2008 Mather Teresina Cellar Pinot, produced in the Terra Alta D.O., is the flagship wine of the Celler Vinos Piñol. It also is small production, from organically farmed grapes. It is made from 35% Garnacha, 35% Cariñena, and 30% Morenillo (an indigenous grape that is almost extinct). This wine possessed more juicy, ripe fruit flavors and milder tannins, making it very easy drinking. There were some subtle spice and herbal notes beneath the fruit. This is the type of wine you can easily enjoy on its own, savoring each lush sip.

Ole Imports continues to satisfy with their Spanish wine selections.

Flying saucers at the Wine Expo? Yes, and thanks to Randall Grahm, the founder and winermaker at Bonny Doon Vineyard, based in Santa Cruz. Le Cigare Volant, the "flying cigar," is a French reference to "flying saucers."  Interestingly, there is a law in Chateauneuf du Pape that prohibits the arrival of flying saucers. Randall thus decided to name his Rhone style blends after le cigare volant. He produces a white and red Le Cigare Volant, as well as a Reserve bottling of both.

I loved both of the whites! The 2011 Le Cigare Volant Blanc ($28) is a blend of 62% Grenache Blanc and 38% Roussanne, presenting an alluring taste of pear, melon, and lemon, complemented by excellent acidity and a lengthy finish. It is rich and full bodied, a savory delight. The 2010 Le Cigare Volant Blanc Reserve ($54) is a blend of 56% Roussanne and 44% Grenache Blanc, and it too is rich and full bodied, with plenty of savory notes. It presents some similar fruit notes, with a bit more prominent melon, but there are some underlying herbal notes with a bit of nuttiness. Both wines are complex and well balanced, and a pure delight to drink.

As for the reds, the 2008 Le Cigare Volant is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignane. It is an intriguing and complex blend with alluring aromatics and a pleasant melange of red fruits, spice and earthiness with restrained tannins and a lengthy finish. It compares well to a fine French Rhone, and you would be hard pressed to guess this was made in California. The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve ($79) is similar, though it presents with more spice and depth. a sublime wine meant to be slowly savored with good friends.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) On Wednesday, April 2, NF Northeast (Neurofibromatosis Northeast) will celebrate the NF community and its supporters with their Table for TEN charitable event in Boston. With Honorary Co-Chairpersons Jenny Johnson (Co-Host of NESN’s “Dining Playbook with Billy and Jenny”) and chef Brian Poe (The Tip Tap Room; Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake; Estelle’s) headlining this unrivaled evening, supporters will dine at some of the city’s top restaurants before closing out their night at a decadent dessert reception with live entertainment and an auction hosted at Parris in Faneuil Hall.

Groups of ten guests will arrive at their respective restaurant at 6pm, and will indulge in a specially created three-course menu. This year, NF Northeast has joined forces with some of the best restaurants throughout the city to make their biggest splash yet. Participating restaurants in this year’s Table for TEN event include, but are not limited to: 75 Chestnut; Artu; Beehive; BOND at the Langham, Boston; Brasserie Jo; Cafeteria; Restaurant dante; Da Vinci Ristorante; Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse; Finch at The Boxer; Lala Rokh; Lucca North End and Back Bay; Lucia Ristorante; OAK Long Bar + Kitchen; Parker’s Restaurant at the Omni Parker; Post 390; Red Lantern; Stefi’s on Tremont; Strega Waterfront; Taranta; The Tip Tap Room; Top of the Hub; and, Union Oyster House.

At 8pm, supporters are invited to continue the festivities at the official after-party hosted by radio legend Ron Della Chiesa at Parris in Faneuil Hall. At this dessert reception, Montilio’s Baking Company will provide sweet treats and revelers will enjoy Latin and jazz music by the Kenny Kozol Trio as well as a live auction with Honorary Co-Chairperson, Jenny Johnson, serving as Guest Auctioneer.

Neurofibromatosis (NF) is a prevalent genetic disorder of the nervous system that causes tumors to form on the nerves anywhere in or on the body at any time. Through NF Northeast’s efforts and the proceeds from their Table for TEN event, grants for groundbreaking research at Harvard Medical School Center for Neurofibromatosis and Allied Disorders, Massachusetts General Hospital and Boston Children’s Hospital are made possible. Over the years, incredible strides in research development have been made bringing us one step closer to a cure.

NF Northeast has provided research grants to scientists at leading institutions around the country. NF Northeast is proud to have been the impetus behind the creation of The Harvard Medical School Center for NF and Allied Disorders (CNfAD), a virtual center whose mission is to define the pathogenetic mechanisms that cause NF1, NF2 and related disorders. NF Northeast is the leading resource in the northeast for patients and families who live with NF, a genetic condition that causes tumors to form on nerves anywhere in or on the body. Neurofibromatosis is more common than cystic fibrosis and muscular dystrophy combined.

For more information on the Table for TEN event and to reserve online, please visit: www.nfincne.org. Tables for ten are available beginning at $1,000 and individual placements at a table may be reserved for $100 per person. Sponsorships are also available by contacting NF Northeast’s Sonja Nathan at 781-272-9936 or snathan@nfincne.org.

2) Since chef de cuisine Mark Christian McMann has come aboard, leaving the bright lights of NYC behind to join chef-owner Chris Douglass here in Dorchester.  Ashmont Grill has evolved from an “almost scratch” kitchen to a “totally scratch” kitchen, and menu items now lean towards “culturally specific” areas of the US and Europe.

Some of the new dishes include:
*Avgolemono Soup
Made in classic style with fresh dill, from a recipe taught to McMann “by an ancient Greek lady” who knew exactly when to stop stirring the eggs.
*Winter Citrus Salad
Tossed in grapefruit vinaigrette are: pomegranates and blood oranges, Marcona almonds, ricotta salata, and radishes.
*Kale & Bacon Salad
“We’re maple-curing two hog bellies a week for our house bacon,” boasts McMann, who tosses this healthful green-of-the-moment with house-pickled pears, feta cheese, and cashews.
*Wild Mushroom Lasagna
Kale appears again, layered with roasted tomatoes and black trumpet-dusted ricotta, in this savory dish starring yellowfoot, hedgehog and shitake ‘shrooms.
*French Butcher’s Steak
Technically a bavette or onglet (tip of the sirloin), McMann wood-grills it, then gilds it with spicy chimichurri.
*Chicken and Dumplin’s
“This one’s been flying out the door,” McMann says, “because the pan-roasted Statler breast is splashed with natural jus, and comes with rough-rolled spinach and ricotta dumplings I was taught to call malfatte.”
*Shepard’s Pie
Local lamb is house-ground and braised in Guinness stout, then topped with a cloud of mashed potatoes for the friendly price of $17.

Pastry Chef Clare Garland recommends: “Our Ice Cream Sandwich of the Month (chocolate-mint nestled between two chocolate shortbreads) always satisfies, or, get a whiff of early spring in the Pistachio-Crusted Cheesecake with Rose-Scented Rhubarb and Strawberry Sorbet.”

3) From April 3-12, Restaurant Week Portsmouth & The Seacoast will be held in New Hampshire and close to 50 restaurants will be participating.  Sponsored by the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce, Restaurant Week is a bi-annual culinary event that spotlights Portsmouth and the Seacoast as a culinary and cultural destination. The dates for the Fall are November 6-15, 2014.

Participating Restaurants include: Agave Mexican Bistro; Anneke Jans; BG's Boathouse; Black Trumpet Bistro; Blue Mermaid Island Grill; Blue Moon Evolution;Brazo Restaurant; British Beer Company; Budha O - Asian Bistro & Lounge; Café Mediterraneo; Café Nostimo; Carriage House Restaurant; Cava Tapas & Wine Bar; Common Man Portsmouth; Demeters Steakhouse; Dinnerhorn Restaurant; The District; Dolphin Striker; Exeter Inn/Epoch Restaurant & Bar; Galley Hatch Restaurant; Grill 28 at Pease; Jumpin' Jays Fish Café; Library Restaurant; Martingale Wharf; Mombo Restaurant; Moxy; The Oar House; Orchard Street Chop Shop; Portsmouth Brewery; Portsmouth Gas Light Co.; Radici Restaurant; Ri Ra Portsmouth, LLC; Ristorante Massimo; River House; Rosa Restaurant; Rudi's Portsmouth; Harbor's Edge at Sheraton Portsmouth Harborside Hotel; Stage Neck Inn; Stages at One Washington;Tavola; Three Chimneys Inn; Tulsi Indian Restaurant; Vida Cantina; Wellington Room; Wentworth by the Sea – SALT.

Authors, Alcohol & Accolades: Volume 11

“Do you drink?"
"Of course, I just said I was a writer.”
--Stephen King

I have returned with another volume in my fun series: Authors, Alcohol & Accolades. Please check Volume 1 for links to all of the prior ten installments. Each installment showcases some of my favorite authors, and I have returned to highlight more, to delve into their drinks of choice, from Beer to Sake. I have found this to provide a fascinating glimpse into the life of the writers I enjoy and hope you like the interviews as well. Support by my readers for this series has been very positive.

You can look forward to further volumes in this series and any authors who are interested in participating in future volumes can contact me.

So let's see what some of my favorite writers, all who have recently released debut novels, like to drink.

John Dixon (Twitter: @JohnDixonBooks)
John's debut novel, Phoenix Island, already inspired a television series, Intelligence, though I believe the novel is superior to the TV show in many ways. In addition, the plots of both are significantly different so that you might not even make the connection between the two unless you were told about it. Phoenix Island is about a troubled young man, Carl Freemen, sent to a military-like camp in order to straighten his life out, and become a productive member of society. However, the camp hides many dark secrets and Carl must fight to survive and try to prevent greater horrors from hurting those he cares about, and the larger world outside of the camp. It is grim and dark, action-packed and suspenseful. It is kind of like Lord of the Flies meets the Shawshank Redemption with a sprinkling of The Island of Dr. Moreau. It has been of my my favorite books of 2014, and I eagerly look forward to the sequel.

John's Preferences: "I'm a Miller lite guy. Always have been. I like the way it tastes. It's relatively cheap and easy to find. It's refreshing on a hot day, and drinking a couple doesn't leave me feeling like I've swallowed a loaf of pumpernickel. 

"In recent years, my allegiance has caused no end of entertaining friction with friends who've embraced the rise of craft beers. All of a sudden, guys I'd had fun drinking with in the not-so-distant past were treating beer like it was fine wine or single-malt Scotch. Their new-found contempt for my beloved Miller lite only spurred me to cheer its praises more loudly, escalating our beer battles into a full-blown beer war... until, in a climactic battle against my friend John D. Harvey, the king of all beer snobs, I struck the fatal blow -- with the help of the platypus. 

"We were standing around at our annual writing retreat, Camp Necon. John was drinking one of several overpriced beers -- like most craft enthusiasts, he never seems satisfied with any single variety and cycles through a selection every session -- and I, of course, was drinking good old Miller lite. When I mentioned that the platypus dreamed more hours of the day than any other animal, his beer animosity got the better of him, and he claimed I was making up my platypus trivia. I told him I most certainly was not making it up, and a bet was born. The burden of proof was on me. If I failed to back up my claim, I had to drink a six pack of Guinness. But if could prove my point, he would drink a twelve pack of Miller Lite. When I provided the Scientific American article where I'd learned that fun fact, John's cry of defeat was like a thousand overpriced beers shattering at once. His concession speech was brief and bitter, and he ultimately welched, drinking only a single Miller lite, but I didn't mind. His half-stepping balk left me with extra Miller lite, a finer celebratory libation than any champagne, and with that, I closed the truly glorious day that brought victory to Miller lite and ended the beer wars forever."

Brian Staveley (Twitter: @BrianStaveley)
Another of my favorite novels so far from 2014 has been Brian's The Emperor's Blades, the first in the Chronicles of the Unhewn Throne. With the assassination of the Emperor, a Machiavellian plot slowly unwinds, reaching out to endanger the three children of the Emperor. Can they survive the deadly plots and learn the truth behind the assassination? Brian has devised a fascinating fantasy world with interesting and well developed characters, a cool magic system, and a story that draws you deep into its center. The tale is told from three different points of view, and I think this allows us to more deeply understand the main characters, and each viewpoint is a compelling story in of itself. This is a book that will keep your attention from page 1 to the very end. Once again, I can't wait to read what comes next.

Brian's Preferences: "If we had known, when we bought this house in rural Vermont, about the beautiful hop vines clustered on the southwestern wall, I’m certain we would have paid double for the place. As it was, we bought it in the dead of winter, and didn’t realize until late spring, when the vines had found their way into the decaying greenhouse, creeping past rotted mullions and through cracks in the glass, that we had hops. More industrious folk would have embarked on a homebrew project; we opted for a scam.

“Have some hops!” we said to all of our brewing friends. “Take lots!”

“Can we pay you?” they asked.

“Of course not,” we replied, smiling shrewdly. “We just want some of the beer.”

And so our very own Hopfest was born. We hand out the hops in the fall, then the next summer, half a dozen amateur brewers show up with their best efforts for a delightful day of drinking, lawn games, and dozing in the sun. It’s a wonderful event for several reasons – good company, hoppy homebrew, and the delicious exploitation of talented friends."

Barry Lancet (Twitter: @BarryLancet)
Released last September, Barry's Japantown instantly interested me with its Japanese connection, and I was very pleased in the end that I chose to buy it. It is non-stop thrill ride involving an antiques dealer, Jim Brodie, who ends up taking over his father's private investigation business in Japan. Beginning with the murder of a family in Japantown, the actions spans from San Francisco to Japan. It gets personal for Brodie as the matter may touch on his wife's death and endangers his young daughter. With a number of plots twists, Barry deftly creates a compelling mystery that well integrates Japanese history and culture. It is one of those "one night" books, the type that you can't put down, no matter how late it gets, because you want to finish it. And to my delight, Sake even figures into the novel. The next book in this series, Tokyo Kill, is due out in September 2014 and I'm told Sake plays an even larger role in that book. A great debut and the film rights have even been optioned.

Barry's Preferences:

"Sake of Choice: Today, I want to recommend a type of sake that is hard to come by in its freshest form, but worth the effort to track down. It’s a well-kept secret, after a fashion. You need access to a sake maker, or to someone who works at a brewery. Or if luck happens to be on your side, you may only need to inquire if a brewery has just made up a batch, or might soon do so.

"What I am talking about is the traditionally pressed shiboritate, where the fermenting sake is poured into large sacks and, in the initial stages, allowed to hang and drip out naturally. Most sake is machine pressed. Shiboritate means “just pressed.” You can find shiboritate bottled, but by the time the precious liquid finds its way into a bottle, it’s too past its prime. Or this might be a generic brand. What you are looking for is the brew directly from the source, within hours after it’s been filtered. No more than six or eight; the sooner the better.

"With the right kind of sake and drunk soon after it is filtered, it is sublime. It is soft and mellow and seems to float on your tongue. It’s the closest thing to liquid ambrosia you’ll ever taste. A lot depends on the maker and the sake he selects for shiboritate, I would imagine. The one I sampled some fifteen years ago was made by a high-ranking employee for private consumption, and hand-carried up to Tokyo on the bullet train for a party later in the day. Traditionally pressed shiboritake may not be the Holy Grail but it is certainly close."

"Shochu of Choice: My choice of shochu, when I can get it, is Hyakunen no Kodoku. It was far less popular and easier to find when I first drank it some fifteen years ago, but demand has made it harder to come by. This shochu is made from barley and aged in wood barrels. The beverage has a subtle amber color. It has the pleasingly heavy body of a good scotch and comes in at a hearty forty proof. Hyakunen no Kodoku is as satisfying and evocative as its name, which is the Japanese title for Gabriel Garcia Marqez’s novel, One Hundred Years of Solitude. In other words, poetic and at times transcendent."

The 10,001 School of Sake Brewing

Sake brewing is both an art and a science, and there are a myriad of different methods of brewing. Probably no Toji, master Sake brewer, does it the exact same way as another. Because of the vast variations of the methods of Sake brewing, the industry is sometimes referred to as Sake zukuri banryu, the “10,000 schools of Sake making.” It might be time to update this phrase, to add another school and make it 10,001.

Let's get a little geeky.

A key ingredient in Sake production is koji, which is basically a culture created by growing different fungi on grains or legumes in a warm and humid place. The term "koji" is derived from "kabi-tachi" which means "bloom of mold."  Koji is used across Asia, though it is known by different names such as qu (pronounced “chew”) in China and nurukgyun in Korea. Koji produces a wide variety of fermented foods and alcohols, from soy sauce to shochu. In Japan, the specific fungus used in koji for Sake production is Aspergillus oryzae, while a number of other fungi. such as Rhizopus oryzae, may also used in other Asian countries.

Like Sake itself, koji was invented in China, and is at least 2300 years old with the first written mention of koji occurring around 300 B.C. Koji came to Japan at least as early as the 8th century, and likely earlier. However, there were differences in their approach as the Japanese primarily relied on the fungus Aspergillus oryzae and usually propagated it on steamed, rather than raw, grains. Initially, this fungus originated in the air and it was a time later that producers started saving koji from previous batches and using it to start new batches. The Japanese fungus was originally called Eurotium oryzae but was later changed, in 1884, to Aspergillus oryzae. Interestingly, in 2006, the Brewing Society of Japan named aspergillus as the kokkin, national fungus, of Japan.

With Sake, and at its most basic level, koji serves to break down the starches in rice into sugars so that yeast can turn that sugar into alcohol. It also serves to help form amino acids, which are important to the taste of Sake. In some respects, koji acts like malt in beer brewing, but there are significant differences as well.

In making Sake, how is seigiku, koji-making, conducted? There are actually numerous ways that this can be done, and each brewery may perform it differently, even if only slightly. However, I'll provide a basic overview of the process with the understanding that this is a complex and diverse activity, and that I am omitting numerous details.

Steamed rice is brought to a koji-muro, a special, heated room where the koji will be created. The steamed rice will be spread out and then mold spores, known as koji-kin or tane-koji, will be spread across the rice. For Sake, ki-koji, a yellow mold is used while in comparison white koji is commonly used to make shochu and black koji is commonly used for awamori. Over the course of about two days, the koji-kin will germinate and spread over all the rice, creating kome-koji, molded rice, which looks like it has been frosted.

Rhizopus oryzae is another fungus, like Aspergillus, which is used in other parts of Asia to make koji, though the Japan largely have ignored it throughout the centuries. The Japanese found that it wasn't conducive to making koji for Sake because it doesn't work well with steamed rice. However, that hasn't stopped a few, innovative Japanese from trying to devise ways to make Rhizopus work in Sake brewing. Why would they try this? Because Rhizopus may have a significant effect on the creation of amino acids, which can affect the taste of Sake.

Sake lover Gordon Heady recently posted about his encounter with an intriguing innovation in Sake production. Yukae Sato, a 22 year-old woman, has invented, patent pending, a method of creating koji with Rhizopus oryzae on steamed rice. Ms. Sato learned about this idea during her time at the University of Kitakyushu. There are still few details available concerning the exact procedure, likely due to patent issues, but we know that a Sake was brewed where 20% of the koji was from Rhizopus. The resultant Sake, a Junmai named Hibikini no Mori, is commercially available and Gordon reports that it is delicious. The Rhizopus appears to have boosted the levels of succinic and lactic acid, and may have boosted the levels of other amino acids too.

The use of Rhizopus in making koji for Sake actually isn't new, and its history extends back over 30 years. In September 1981, four Japanese inventors filed for a patent "Process For Preparation Of Japanese Sake Using Koji (Rice Malt) Which Is Made By Propagating Rhizopus On Raw Rice." I wasn't able to find much information about this patent, but it is clear they used raw rice rather than steamed rice, differentiating it from Ms. Sato's pending patent which uses steamed rice.

Later, in 1988, a study was published, in three parts, in the Journal of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan discussing a series of experiments in Sake brewing using seven different strains of Rhizopus on steamed rice. The study concluded that "The genus Rhizopus grew well in polished rice steeped in a particular solution of amino acids (Ala, Glu, Lys, Tyr, Val) and its steamed rice." They also stated that "Organic acids, especially fumaric, citric and malic acids, were present in the “peculiar koji” at higher levels than in ordinary koji." So, they too used steamed rice but I am unsure whether they actually sought a patent or not for their processes. The results though clearly showed elevated amino acid levels.

Despite this prior history, I've never previously heard of any commercially available Sake that was produced using Rhizopus. The Hibikini no Mori may thus be the first commercial Sake using Rhizopus, making it an intriguing new innovation. Ms. Sato's koji making process could be an important step forward in a fascinating and compelling new style of Sake. It is an important step as well for women in the Sake industry, who for many centuries who were not permitted even entrance into a Sake brewery. I look forward to learning more about Ms.Sato and her Rhizopus process, and hope to one day taste the resulting Sake.

Rant: Restaurant Reviews & Yelp's Top 100

What is the best restaurant in Massachusetts? That is certainly not an easy question to answer, and there is plenty of subjectivity involved in any possible answer.

Many consumers seek out restaurant reviews for advice on where they should dine. They might read the food column of a local newspaper or magazine, or check out the reviews from a local food blogger. Or they might check out the crowd sourced reviews from sites like Trip Advisor or Yelp. Which source is the most valuable for consumers?

Yelp has certainly been the target of much derision and controversy. And I don't think Yelp's new list of the Top 100 Places To Eat in the U.S. is going to help its reputation. I found the list enlightening and I feel it speaks volumes to consumers about what they can expect if they rely upon Yelp reviews. The list is drastically different from many other sources which have compiled their own "best places to eat" lists. There are restaurant's on the Yelp list that have probably never been listed before on any other "best place in the U.S."

Forget the French Laundry or Le Bernadin, according to Yelp the #1 restaurant in the entire U.S. is Da Poke Shack, a tiny seafood restaurant, kind of a hole-in-the-wall, in Hawaii that primarily serves poke, which you can roughly think of as a raw seafood salad. Really? The best in the entire country? Prior to this list, I have never heard of this place before, and have never seen it on any other "best in the country" list. It certainly befuddles me, though seems indicative of the type of places that Yelpers prefer.

Nearly half of the spots on the top 100 list are taken by restaurants in California. As part of the reason for restaurants to be on this list concerns the number of reviews a place has received, it seems likely that there are far more active Yelpers in California than any other state. It also seems to indicate that the list is biased more toward West Coast restaurants. With such a bias, can we take this list seriously?

There is a single Massachusetts restaurant on the list, at #32, and it is ranked higher than the French Laundry and Le Bernadin. That would make it the best restaurant in Massachusetts. Can you guess which Massachusetts restaurant garnered these accolades?

I bet you probably guessed wrong as it isn't an obvious choice. Yelp chose Dave's Fresh Pasta in Somerville as one of their top 100 restaurants in the country. Again, I am befuddled how this place, which though it is good, somehow got ranked as the "best" restaurant in Massachusetts. Personally, I could list a couple dozen places offhand that I would consider better than this place. Do any of my readers consider Dave's Fresh Pasta to be the best restaurant in Massachusetts?

Only two other New England restaurants made the list, the Fishermen's Grill in Portland, Maine at #60 and Los Andes Restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island at #69. Again, neither of these two places are on a short list of places I would consider the "best" in their state.

If these are the type of places that Yelp considers to be the best, do you really want to rely on it for your restaurant decisions?