Raiders Of The Lost Ark was a major hit, becoming the highest grossing film in the U.S. in 1981. I remember seeing this movie in the theater, and felt transported as the adventure progressed upon the great screen. The film evoked a sense of wonder, presenting a story of exploration and discovery, an adventure that traveled to exotic, foreign lands. It presented a mystery, which led to research into ancient traditions and cultures. There were negative forces that wanted to assert a monolithic thinking upon the world, to crush any desire for diversity.
I feel like a vinous Indiana Jones.
In a recent rant, Robert Parker lashed out against those who enjoy, promote and advocate for more esoteric grapes. He referred to them as "...some godforsaken grapes that, in hundreds and hundreds of years of viticulture, wine consumption, etc., have never gotten traction because they are rarely of interest.." He continued to say that such wines are "...in truth, rarely palatable unless lost in a larger blend..." I think Parker has lost that sense of wonder about wine.
To me, a large part of wine is exploration and discovery, the adventure of seeking out the vast diversity in wine, including many hundreds of different grapes. That exploration has taken me to wine regions all over the world, and back thousands of years in history, seeking the origins of rare grapes. It is the mystery of these esoteric grapes which beckon to my soul, which cry out for tasting and investigation. Like Indiana Jones, I am off on a vinous adventure, resisting the negative forces trying to impose their narrow minded thinking upon the world.
I have long been a champion and advocate of more esoteric wines, grapes and regions. I like supporting the underdog. However, I only support those wines which I feel are worthy. I don't just support a wine or grape because it is obscure. It must be delicious and compelling, interesting and palate pleasing. And unlike Parker, I have found many excellent wines produced from more esoteric grapes. For example, this past weekend, I tasted intriguing wines made from grapes like Mtsvane, Krakhuna and Saperavi. Such wines have earned my support.
None of that means I ignore the classics, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. I have immense respect for them, though we all know there is plenty of rather uninspiring wine made from these grapes too. During this past weekend, I thoroughly enjoyed some exceptional wines from Burgundy, both white and red. One can enjoy both classics and the esoteric. One doesn't have to choose one over the other.
There are calls for diversity in all aspects of our society now and the wine world should be no different. We want to see more women and people of color involved in the actual wine industry, as winemakers, winery owners, sommeliers, and more. We should also seek more diversity in the wines we drink. Enjoy Chardonnay, but also understand the wonders of Godello, Arinto and Rkatsiteli. Embrace Cabernet Sauvignon but don't ignore Mencia, Touriga Franca and Caladoc.
Not every wine seeks to attain the lofty heights of Romanée-Conti. Some just want to provide a compelling and tasty wine that delivers on its price. Esoteric grapes can produce plenty of wines exactly like that. And we may never know the potential heights they can reach unless there is more experimentation with such grapes. A hidden gem might be hiding in a remote vineyard, a grape that has almost been forgotten but with vast potential. It is the folly to think we know everything about wine and which grapes make the best wine.
For me, I want to continue on the path of Indiana Jones, exploring everything that the world of wine has to offer.
Thursday Sips & Nibbles
I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) Restaurateurs in Portsmouth and the New Hampshire Seacoast are looking ahead to Spring and the latest edition of Restaurant Week Portsmouth and the Seacoast. Sponsored by the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce, this Spring celebration will take place Thursday, April 3 – Saturday April 12, and will feature restaurants located in Portsmouth and throughout the Seacoast.
“Whether you’re a local resident or a traveler, you can find what you are looking for in Portsmouth and the Seacoast, said Valerie Rochon, Tourism Director for the Chamber. “Want to shop our independent stores or rich gallery scene before dinner? Take in dinner and a show? Stay the night in one of our charming hotels? Portsmouth and the Seacoast have it all. And, if you are new to the area, Restaurant Week is a great way to introduce yourself to this charming, culinary destination.”
Participating Restaurants, to date, include: Agave Mexican Bistro; Anneke Jans; BG's Boathouse; Blue Mermaid; British Beer Company; Café Nostimo; Carriage House; Cava Tapas & Wine Bar; Common Man; Dolphin Striker; Epoch at Exeter Inn; Galley Hatch; Grill 28 at Pease; Jumpin' Jays Fish Café; Library Restaurant; Martingale Wharf; Mombo Restaurant; Moxy; Orchard Street Chop Shop; Portsmouth Gas Light Co.; Radici Restaurant; Ristorante Massimo; River House; Rosa Restaurant; Rudi's Portsmouth; Harbor's Edge; Three Chimneys Inn; Vida Cantina; and Wellington Room.
2) This Valentine’s Day relive the past while making new memories at Hyatt Regency Cambridge’s renowned Spinnaker restaurant. On February 14, from 6:30PM to 9:30PM, the Hyatt is opening up the doors to the Charles View Ballroom, once the home of Spinnaker Italia, Boston’s only rotating restaurant, for a classic $70 prix fixe Valentine’s Day dinner as a nod to the romance and celebration that Spinnaker evoked.
Spend Valentine’s Day taking in the same vast and impressive views that once ushered in countless special events, engagements, birthdays and anniversaries while indulging in a variety of dining stations, operated by expert chefs. Containing a classically inspired raw bar and contemporary, New England-style dishes; including, oven roasted, garlic beef tenderloin; creamy Arborio rice with cabernet sauvignon, prosciutto and Romano Reggiano cheese; and white chocolate crème brûlée. The Spinnaker pop-up will also include signature Spinnaker cocktails as a toast to days not long forgotten.
Located on the sixteenth floor and known for its vast and impressive views of the Charles River and Boston skyline, the Spinnaker restaurant rose to fame when it opened in 1976. Evolving from a lounge to host a variety of cuisines, including northern Italian and regional inspired fare, the Spinnaker served the public for 28 years before closing its doors in 2004.While the original Spinnaker has lost all ability to in fact “spin” the renovated meeting room space, today known as the Charles View Ballroom, will transport you back in time as you walk the circumference taking in the sweeping views of today.
To make a reservation please call 617-492-1234
3) Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is reprising his popular Gravy Sundays weekly culinary series at Prezza. Keeping in the longstanding Italian tradition of family and food, “Gravy Sundays” provides a menu of Old World-style comfort cuisine with a new special each week, served Sundays from 4pm-9pm.
Prezza’s “Gravy Sundays” menu has six homestyle options including: Gnocchi (San Marzano tomato, parmigiano - $14/$28); Meatballs (tomato, tagliatelle - $14/$28); Fried Clams (cherry peppers - $14); Linguine alle Vongole ($14/28); Veal Saltimbocca (spinach, roasted potatoes - $26); and, Chicken Parmigiano (tagliatelle, San Marzano tomato - $26).
Over the next six weeks. Chef Caturano will dish out an additional special to celebrate the return of the Prezza tradition:
February 9: Tagliatelle (pecorino cheese, black peppercorns - $14/$28)
February 16: Porchetta (roasted potatoes, braised kale - $28)
February 23: Eggplant Parmigiano ($14)
March 2: Roasted Veal Breast (stuffed with ricotta and broccoli rabe - $28)
March 9: Ricotta Gnocchi (sausage, broccoli rabe, Taleggio - $14/$28)
March 16: Pork Cheek Ravioli (aged balsamic - $14/$28)
4) On Monday, March 17, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, A Spoonful Of Ginger will offer guests the opportunity to taste the cuisine of 24 of Boston’s restaurants at the beautiful Art of the Americas Wing at the Museum of Fine Arts. Guests will enjoy an evening of gourmet dishes prepared by some of Boston’s most renowned chefs, including David Becker, Joanne Chang, Andy Husbands, Kevin Long, and Jasper White. I have been to this event numerous times and it is a great and tasty time.
Proceeds benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI), which strives to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, as well as working with Joslin in their commitment to finding a cure. This year’s event will honor the Director and Founder of the AADI and Joslin Diabetes Center’s Director Research, Dr. George King, for his contributions to the AADI’s mission and his active role within the Asian American community.
COST: Tickets are $250 per guest
FOR TICKETS: Call 617-309-2512, e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu or visit: www.joslin.org/ginger
1) Restaurateurs in Portsmouth and the New Hampshire Seacoast are looking ahead to Spring and the latest edition of Restaurant Week Portsmouth and the Seacoast. Sponsored by the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce, this Spring celebration will take place Thursday, April 3 – Saturday April 12, and will feature restaurants located in Portsmouth and throughout the Seacoast.
“Whether you’re a local resident or a traveler, you can find what you are looking for in Portsmouth and the Seacoast, said Valerie Rochon, Tourism Director for the Chamber. “Want to shop our independent stores or rich gallery scene before dinner? Take in dinner and a show? Stay the night in one of our charming hotels? Portsmouth and the Seacoast have it all. And, if you are new to the area, Restaurant Week is a great way to introduce yourself to this charming, culinary destination.”
Participating Restaurants, to date, include: Agave Mexican Bistro; Anneke Jans; BG's Boathouse; Blue Mermaid; British Beer Company; Café Nostimo; Carriage House; Cava Tapas & Wine Bar; Common Man; Dolphin Striker; Epoch at Exeter Inn; Galley Hatch; Grill 28 at Pease; Jumpin' Jays Fish Café; Library Restaurant; Martingale Wharf; Mombo Restaurant; Moxy; Orchard Street Chop Shop; Portsmouth Gas Light Co.; Radici Restaurant; Ristorante Massimo; River House; Rosa Restaurant; Rudi's Portsmouth; Harbor's Edge; Three Chimneys Inn; Vida Cantina; and Wellington Room.
2) This Valentine’s Day relive the past while making new memories at Hyatt Regency Cambridge’s renowned Spinnaker restaurant. On February 14, from 6:30PM to 9:30PM, the Hyatt is opening up the doors to the Charles View Ballroom, once the home of Spinnaker Italia, Boston’s only rotating restaurant, for a classic $70 prix fixe Valentine’s Day dinner as a nod to the romance and celebration that Spinnaker evoked.
Spend Valentine’s Day taking in the same vast and impressive views that once ushered in countless special events, engagements, birthdays and anniversaries while indulging in a variety of dining stations, operated by expert chefs. Containing a classically inspired raw bar and contemporary, New England-style dishes; including, oven roasted, garlic beef tenderloin; creamy Arborio rice with cabernet sauvignon, prosciutto and Romano Reggiano cheese; and white chocolate crème brûlée. The Spinnaker pop-up will also include signature Spinnaker cocktails as a toast to days not long forgotten.
Located on the sixteenth floor and known for its vast and impressive views of the Charles River and Boston skyline, the Spinnaker restaurant rose to fame when it opened in 1976. Evolving from a lounge to host a variety of cuisines, including northern Italian and regional inspired fare, the Spinnaker served the public for 28 years before closing its doors in 2004.While the original Spinnaker has lost all ability to in fact “spin” the renovated meeting room space, today known as the Charles View Ballroom, will transport you back in time as you walk the circumference taking in the sweeping views of today.
To make a reservation please call 617-492-1234
3) Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is reprising his popular Gravy Sundays weekly culinary series at Prezza. Keeping in the longstanding Italian tradition of family and food, “Gravy Sundays” provides a menu of Old World-style comfort cuisine with a new special each week, served Sundays from 4pm-9pm.
Prezza’s “Gravy Sundays” menu has six homestyle options including: Gnocchi (San Marzano tomato, parmigiano - $14/$28); Meatballs (tomato, tagliatelle - $14/$28); Fried Clams (cherry peppers - $14); Linguine alle Vongole ($14/28); Veal Saltimbocca (spinach, roasted potatoes - $26); and, Chicken Parmigiano (tagliatelle, San Marzano tomato - $26).
Over the next six weeks. Chef Caturano will dish out an additional special to celebrate the return of the Prezza tradition:
February 9: Tagliatelle (pecorino cheese, black peppercorns - $14/$28)
February 16: Porchetta (roasted potatoes, braised kale - $28)
February 23: Eggplant Parmigiano ($14)
March 2: Roasted Veal Breast (stuffed with ricotta and broccoli rabe - $28)
March 9: Ricotta Gnocchi (sausage, broccoli rabe, Taleggio - $14/$28)
March 16: Pork Cheek Ravioli (aged balsamic - $14/$28)
4) On Monday, March 17, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, A Spoonful Of Ginger will offer guests the opportunity to taste the cuisine of 24 of Boston’s restaurants at the beautiful Art of the Americas Wing at the Museum of Fine Arts. Guests will enjoy an evening of gourmet dishes prepared by some of Boston’s most renowned chefs, including David Becker, Joanne Chang, Andy Husbands, Kevin Long, and Jasper White. I have been to this event numerous times and it is a great and tasty time.
Proceeds benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI), which strives to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, as well as working with Joslin in their commitment to finding a cure. This year’s event will honor the Director and Founder of the AADI and Joslin Diabetes Center’s Director Research, Dr. George King, for his contributions to the AADI’s mission and his active role within the Asian American community.
COST: Tickets are $250 per guest
FOR TICKETS: Call 617-309-2512, e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu or visit: www.joslin.org/ginger
Mutemuka Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu: The Rarity of Organic Sake
In addition, Japan has strict regulations concerning organic Sake, not only in the fields but also in the brewery itself. It takes a great commitment to become organic. You must also realize that yields of organic rice paddies are approximately 50% less than ordinary paddies, and organic production costs are about 25% higher. It isn't cheap to be organic, especially considering that rice is often the most expensive element in Sake production.
You may have seen some organic Sakes at your local shop but many of those actually use organic rice sourced from California. I previously reviewed one of the few organic Sakes that actually used organic rice from Japan. We must also understand that a Sake may be organic but hasn't received certification from the U.S.yet. It can be a confusing situation for consumers who seek out organic Sake.
Earlier this week, I drank an intriguing Sake from an organic producer, another excellent addition to the portfolio of The Floating World, a small Sake importer based in New Mexico. I previously raved about this importer and several of their compelling Sakes, and they sent me a sample of their newest acquisition.
The Mutemuka Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu ($76/720ml) is produced by the Mutemuka Shuzo, which is located in the Kōchi Prefecture and was founded in 1893. The term "mutemuka" roughly translates as "a Sake made with pure intentions, without ornamentation." About 30 years ago, the brewery introduced organic farming to its rice, even though neighboring farmers weren't happy with his decision. The Kōchi Prefecture is well known for its numerous rivers and Mutemuka sits close to Shimanto River, famed for its purity and sometimes called "the last clear stream of Japan." Using water so pure only adds to the value of organic Sake.
As an aside, Mutemuka also makes shochu, a distilled liquor, and they produce a special type, kuri-jochu, chestnut shochu. This is supposed to be a smooth drink, and one will improve with age.
The Mutemuka Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu is more unique as it is a premium Sake made from two types of rice, including a table rice. For their moto, the yeast starter, they use Kaze Naruko, which is a Sake rice grown only in the Kōchi Prefecture. For the fermentation tank though, they use Hino-Hikari, a type of table rice, which means this Sake uses more table rice than Sake rice. Nearly all futsu-shu, ordinary Sake, is made from table rice but it is more a rarity in premium Sake. However, there are some excellent examples which indicate that quality Sake can be made from table rice. That should be good news to U.S. Sake producers who use table rice for their premium Sake.
For this Sake, the rice is polished down to 65%, and has an SMV of +5, which would tend to make you believe it should be dry. In this case, you would be correct. As it is a Muroka Nama Genshu, that means that it undergoes no charcoal filtration, pasteurization or dilution. As a Nama, you need to refrigerate it so it doesn't go bad. The Sake is also aged for about half a year at room temperature.
Up front, there is a fruity taste, some melon and pear notes, but that quickly transforms on your palate into a more savory and earthy element, which then dominates your mouth. A surge of umami floods your palate, with hints of herbal notes and a tinge of bitterness. It possesses a fascinating complexity and this is also a very food friendly Sake, especially because of its high umami. Another winner from The Floating World.
Sake News
1) Does playing music during Sake production lead to smoother Sake? In The Japan Times, you should read the article, Walking In The Steps Of Samurai, which talks about the Japanese city of Sasayama in the Hyogo Prefecture. The article provides some interesting history and also discusses the Hohmei Sake Brewery, where the same company has been producing Sake since 1797. The brewery now hooks up each barrel of Sake with its own speakers so music can be played, and the vibrations will travel through the Sake. A variety of different musics will be played and it is thought this leads to a smoother Sake. There are a number of wineries, in places such as Spain, South Africa and Chile, which play music in their cellars, or sometimes even in the vineyards. I don't know if it actually works or not, but it is an intriguing practice.
2) Sake produced in Maine? Yes, it is coming and that is good news to local Sake lovers. The Seacoast Online posted a new article, Bringing the art of sake to the Seacoast by Deborah McDermott. This spring could see the opening of the Blue Current Brewery, in Kittery, Maine, by Dan Ford and John Sygtowski. They hope to begin production by the end of March and eventually open a tasting room too. There is a small growth of Sake breweries in the U.S., with around a dozen currently in operation or opening in the near future. Most of those breweries used to be in California but that is changing and you'll find breweries now in places like Texas and Minnesota, and now soon in Maine and Connecticut. I eagerly look forward to taste the Blue Current Sakes, and see what New England can do with this wondrous beverage.
3) More Sake qualifications? In January, the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), with the cooperation of the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF), has held several Sake seminars in London. The Drinks Business reports that this is but a preliminary to the WSET's project later this year to create a Sake qualification course, the Level 3 Award in Sake. There is little information available currently on what the course will entail, though the fact it is "Level 3" means it could be similar in some respects to the Level 3 Award in Wine & Spirits.
As I already possess a Sake certification from John Gauntner and the Sake Education Council, I wouldn't seek out this additional WSET certification. And I highly recommend that anyone interested in learning more about Sake seek out Gauntner's certification course. However, I also support efforts to train more people in Sake and think it is good that the WSET is getting involved in Sake education. I look forward to learning more details about this certification course, and seeing more Sake advocates come forward.
Rant: Banned In Boston
In the late 19th century, the phrase "banned in Boston" started to take hold, usually referring to movies, books and plays that got banned because they were thought to be immoral, salacious or offensive. It use continued into the 20th century and now in the 21st century, another would-be exhibitor has been banned in Boston, because they were found to be offensive to the organizers of a large-scale wine event.
This weekend, the Boston Wine Expo comes to town and thousands of consumers will descend on the Seaport World Trade Center, taking the opportunity to sample from more than a thousand wines or attend one of the more than 40 seminars. Besides all of the wine tables, there will be exhibitors showcasing food, magazines, financial services, travel and more. However, though they wanted to exhibit, you won't find the American Wine Consumer’s Coalition (AWCC) at this year's Expo. They were "banned in Boston."
This banning recently came to light in the Wine Industry Insight, in the article Boston Wine Expo Bans Direct-To-Consumer Exhibitors by Lewis Perdue. Mr. Perdue was informed by Tom Wark, Executive Director of the AWCC, that they had tried to obtain a booth at the Expo but were denied because of their support of direct wine shipping in Massachusetts. As I mentioned previously, a law which barred out of state winery shipments to Massachusetts consumers was ruled unconstitutional. Since that ruling, there have been several efforts to create a legal framework allowing such winery shipments, though nothing has yet succeeded.
Most recently, the proposed legal framework is House Bill 294, authored by Representative Theodore Speliotis. A public hearing, with much positive support, was heard on this bill in November 2013 but it is currently in limbo, awaiting a vote. Free The Grapes is pushing for such a vote and you can check out how to help in that regard. The AWCC has been supportive of this bill, and wanted to use the opportunity of the Boston Wine Expo to explain to the consumer attendees about the importance of the bill and why they should support Direct-To-Consumer (DTC) sales.
Mr. Perdue followed up with James Carmody, the President of the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, which organizes and operates the Boston Wine Expo, to discuss the banning of the AWCC. Mr. Carmody stated that wholesalers and distributors have been the "foundation of the show." Thus, there business interests are important to the Expo. Mr. Carmody also noted that the Board has decided not to allow direct shippers to exhibit, and this also apparently now extends to any organization which promotes the idea of DTC sales.
In some respects, this is surprising as Free The Grapes has been an exhibitor in prior years, including last year, and they have long promoted DTC sales. So it appears that a blanket prohibition on exhibitors promoting DTC sales is something new this year. Why is this year different? Free The Grapes has stated that they didn't plan on attending the Expo this year. If they had tried to become an exhibitor this year, would they have been refused too? The Expo website does not provide any rules or restrictions as to who can exhibit at the Expo, so would-be exhibitors have little information as to what is potentially prohibited.
In other respects, this is not surprising. Last year, I met James Carmody at a Expo preview event and he summed up, with much candor, the primary purpose of the Expo: commerce. It is primarily about wineries finding local distributors, distributors finding retailers and restaurants, and wineries trying to raise their brand recognition with consumer. Nearly everyone showcasing their products at the Expo is seeking to make money, to expand their business. On the Expo website, under "Why Exhibit," it states: "The Show has been transformed into a major "selling event" for wineries with distribution in Massachusetts." That seems to make the focus of the Expo more clear.
Besides this emphasis on business, the Expo is also a consumer event, at least in part. As their website states, "The Boston Wine Expo is the largest trade and consumer wine event in the country." However, it needs to be understood that the business needs and desires of the Expo generally take precedence over consumer issues, and definitely on the DTC sales issue. Wholesalers and distributors are the primary opposition to House Bill 294, believing it threatens their profits. As they are integral to the prosperity of the Expo, the Board does not want to alienate them by allowing exhibitors to promote DTC sales.
The Boston Guild Of Oenophilists Inc. is organized as a Domestic Profit Corporation, though they have also contributed over $1 Million to numerous charities. The corporation has a President, Treasurer, Secretary, CEO, CFO and 16 Directors. Some of those Directors work for wholesalers and distributors, so it is understandable why they would be opposed to DTC sales. This concern about DTC sales, leading to a ban this year on those supporting such sales, may have arisen because of the looming presence of House Bill 294. It may be seen as an imminent threat, and the wholesalers and distributors do not want anyone promoting that bill at the Expo.
Interestingly, Free the Grapes notes that "...a December 2012 report by the Maryland Comptroller noted that wholesale-to-retail sales actually increased 3.6% the year following implementation of direct shipping in that state." This seems to indicate that the fears of Massachusetts wholesalers and distributors is largely unfounded. Proponents of DTC sales, such as the AWCC, have also provided many convincing arguments in support of DTC sales. The arguments against DTC sales have been far weaker and less convincing. At the base, it is primarily about fear, fear of lost profits.
When you delve back into the origins of the Boston Wine Expo, the seeds of its inspiration actually supported "direct access to the wines' producers." The founder, François-Laurent Nivaud, found the basis for his idea for the Boston Wine Expo in the French wine shows, Le Concours, and those French shows actually wanted people to have direct access to the producers. Currently, Le Concours has a web-based sales channel for online sales of its wines. Why can't the Boston Wine Expo emulate these aspects as well, supporting DTC sales?
It is inevitable that DTC sales will come to Massachusetts. It is only a matter of time, and with House Bill 294, it could be here sooner than later. There is a growing surge across the entire country supporting DTC sales and wholesalers and distributors are trying to hold back a tidal wave with paper walls. Rather than fear it, wholesalers and distributors need to learn how to co-exist with it. The presence of Free The Grapes at prior Expos did not cause any harm, so why start now to ban organizations like AWCC from promoting the cause of DTC sales? Will such a prohibition really stop DTC sales from coming to Massachusetts. Extremely doubtful.
The Boston Wine Expo has prided itself on change, trying to make the event better and more relevant each year. For example, within the last couple years, the Expo has embraced social media and blogging, which has been a positive addition. However, banning promoters of DTC sales is a step backwards. It is a denial of the inevitable future of wine sales. It does a disservice to the consumers attending the event. And it needs to change.
This weekend, the Boston Wine Expo comes to town and thousands of consumers will descend on the Seaport World Trade Center, taking the opportunity to sample from more than a thousand wines or attend one of the more than 40 seminars. Besides all of the wine tables, there will be exhibitors showcasing food, magazines, financial services, travel and more. However, though they wanted to exhibit, you won't find the American Wine Consumer’s Coalition (AWCC) at this year's Expo. They were "banned in Boston."
This banning recently came to light in the Wine Industry Insight, in the article Boston Wine Expo Bans Direct-To-Consumer Exhibitors by Lewis Perdue. Mr. Perdue was informed by Tom Wark, Executive Director of the AWCC, that they had tried to obtain a booth at the Expo but were denied because of their support of direct wine shipping in Massachusetts. As I mentioned previously, a law which barred out of state winery shipments to Massachusetts consumers was ruled unconstitutional. Since that ruling, there have been several efforts to create a legal framework allowing such winery shipments, though nothing has yet succeeded.
Most recently, the proposed legal framework is House Bill 294, authored by Representative Theodore Speliotis. A public hearing, with much positive support, was heard on this bill in November 2013 but it is currently in limbo, awaiting a vote. Free The Grapes is pushing for such a vote and you can check out how to help in that regard. The AWCC has been supportive of this bill, and wanted to use the opportunity of the Boston Wine Expo to explain to the consumer attendees about the importance of the bill and why they should support Direct-To-Consumer (DTC) sales.
Mr. Perdue followed up with James Carmody, the President of the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, which organizes and operates the Boston Wine Expo, to discuss the banning of the AWCC. Mr. Carmody stated that wholesalers and distributors have been the "foundation of the show." Thus, there business interests are important to the Expo. Mr. Carmody also noted that the Board has decided not to allow direct shippers to exhibit, and this also apparently now extends to any organization which promotes the idea of DTC sales.
In some respects, this is surprising as Free The Grapes has been an exhibitor in prior years, including last year, and they have long promoted DTC sales. So it appears that a blanket prohibition on exhibitors promoting DTC sales is something new this year. Why is this year different? Free The Grapes has stated that they didn't plan on attending the Expo this year. If they had tried to become an exhibitor this year, would they have been refused too? The Expo website does not provide any rules or restrictions as to who can exhibit at the Expo, so would-be exhibitors have little information as to what is potentially prohibited.
In other respects, this is not surprising. Last year, I met James Carmody at a Expo preview event and he summed up, with much candor, the primary purpose of the Expo: commerce. It is primarily about wineries finding local distributors, distributors finding retailers and restaurants, and wineries trying to raise their brand recognition with consumer. Nearly everyone showcasing their products at the Expo is seeking to make money, to expand their business. On the Expo website, under "Why Exhibit," it states: "The Show has been transformed into a major "selling event" for wineries with distribution in Massachusetts." That seems to make the focus of the Expo more clear.
Besides this emphasis on business, the Expo is also a consumer event, at least in part. As their website states, "The Boston Wine Expo is the largest trade and consumer wine event in the country." However, it needs to be understood that the business needs and desires of the Expo generally take precedence over consumer issues, and definitely on the DTC sales issue. Wholesalers and distributors are the primary opposition to House Bill 294, believing it threatens their profits. As they are integral to the prosperity of the Expo, the Board does not want to alienate them by allowing exhibitors to promote DTC sales.
The Boston Guild Of Oenophilists Inc. is organized as a Domestic Profit Corporation, though they have also contributed over $1 Million to numerous charities. The corporation has a President, Treasurer, Secretary, CEO, CFO and 16 Directors. Some of those Directors work for wholesalers and distributors, so it is understandable why they would be opposed to DTC sales. This concern about DTC sales, leading to a ban this year on those supporting such sales, may have arisen because of the looming presence of House Bill 294. It may be seen as an imminent threat, and the wholesalers and distributors do not want anyone promoting that bill at the Expo.
Interestingly, Free the Grapes notes that "...a December 2012 report by the Maryland Comptroller noted that wholesale-to-retail sales actually increased 3.6% the year following implementation of direct shipping in that state." This seems to indicate that the fears of Massachusetts wholesalers and distributors is largely unfounded. Proponents of DTC sales, such as the AWCC, have also provided many convincing arguments in support of DTC sales. The arguments against DTC sales have been far weaker and less convincing. At the base, it is primarily about fear, fear of lost profits.
When you delve back into the origins of the Boston Wine Expo, the seeds of its inspiration actually supported "direct access to the wines' producers." The founder, François-Laurent Nivaud, found the basis for his idea for the Boston Wine Expo in the French wine shows, Le Concours, and those French shows actually wanted people to have direct access to the producers. Currently, Le Concours has a web-based sales channel for online sales of its wines. Why can't the Boston Wine Expo emulate these aspects as well, supporting DTC sales?
It is inevitable that DTC sales will come to Massachusetts. It is only a matter of time, and with House Bill 294, it could be here sooner than later. There is a growing surge across the entire country supporting DTC sales and wholesalers and distributors are trying to hold back a tidal wave with paper walls. Rather than fear it, wholesalers and distributors need to learn how to co-exist with it. The presence of Free The Grapes at prior Expos did not cause any harm, so why start now to ban organizations like AWCC from promoting the cause of DTC sales? Will such a prohibition really stop DTC sales from coming to Massachusetts. Extremely doubtful.
The Boston Wine Expo has prided itself on change, trying to make the event better and more relevant each year. For example, within the last couple years, the Expo has embraced social media and blogging, which has been a positive addition. However, banning promoters of DTC sales is a step backwards. It is a denial of the inevitable future of wine sales. It does a disservice to the consumers attending the event. And it needs to change.
2014 Mohegan Sun WineFest: Favorite Wines & More
As for venues, the Sun WineFest is the clear winner, hosting the event in a casino rather than Wine Expo, which is held in an exhibition hall in the Seaport District. Even if you don't gamble, there are plenty of other options at Mohegan Sun, from a swimming pool to shopping. I enjoy gambling, especially poker, and had fun playing some games during the Sun WineFest weekend. The Sun WineFest also runs over three days, with several different events, from a Bourbon Tasting to a Celebrity Chef Dine Around. However, they do not run wine and alcohol seminars like the Wine Expo, and would benefit more if they did.
On the other hand, the Sun WineFest offers more than just wine for tasting. You can also find beer, cider and spirits, which the Wine Expo rarely offers. At the Sun WineFest, there are several separate rooms for their beer and cider samples. The spirits are offered in the same main hall as the wine tasting, except for a few producers which were located just outside the main hall. These additional beers, ciders and spirits add value to the Sun WineFest.
I now want to share some of my favorites from the Grand Tasting, mainly wine but with a bit of cider and whiskey too. Obviously, I did not taste every wine at the event so there could have been other worthy wines that I simply did not get the opportunity to sample. If you attended this event, and tasted some excellent wines that I have not mentioned, feel free to add your thoughts to the Comments.
Their entry level Rosé is the 2013 Whispering Angel ($20-$25), which was recently released. Bright red fruit, clean and crisp, this is a delicious and easy-drinking wine but it is not a simple one. This is the Provence style Rosé which I really enjoy. The 2012 Chateau D'Esclans Rosé ($30-$35) has more restrained red fruit flavors and greater complexity with some herbal elements. It brings elegance to your glass. The 2011 Les Clans ($75) is made from a blend of 50 and 80 year old Grenache and sees a touch of oak. The complexity continues to increase, and there is a subtle melange of intriguing flavors, including tropical fruit, dried fruit and herbal notes. Elegance, style and a fuller body. The 2011 Garrus ($100) is made from 100% 80-year old Grenache and sees about a year in new oak. This is an ethereal and complex Rosé, clearly a stunner. It nearly eludes description, something to experience rather than read about. The taste will linger long in your mouth, and it will haunt your memory for even longer.
One of my favorites of the entire event was the NV Vermut LaCuesta ($20), an impressive Spanish vermouth. Tempranillo is the base wine, and it presented with an intriguing herbal taste with only mild bitter elements and hints of sweetness. I tasted some of it on its own, as well as in a glass with ice, and in both instances, it was impressive. It is well balanced, and would be delicious on its own or in a cocktail. Highly recommended.
I liked their red wines, including the 2012 Nachise ($22) a Rhone blend made up of 42% Syrah, 30% Petite Sirah, 18% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre. It is aged in 95% neutral French oak and presents with plenty of lush red and black fruit flavors up front, with spicy notes on the finish. There is also a sprinkling of herbal hints, enhancing its complexity. A wine that can be enjoyed on its own or with food. My favorite of their wines though was the 2011 Mangus ($22), a Super Tuscan blend made up of 60% Sangiovese, 13% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. It spent about 10 months in neutral French oak and the alluring aroma beckoned to me.On the palate, it was compelling, with lots of complexity, luscious red fruit, and dark spices. The tannins were restrained and it had a lengthy, satisfying finish. Highly recommended.
Jonathan Edwards Winery is a local winery, located in Connecticut and they produce both estate wines as well as other wines made from California grapes. I tasted their estate wines and enjoyed the 2012 Estate Pinot Gris ($23). I found it full bodied and crisp, with pleasant pear and melon flavors, enhanced by a floral component. I was most impressed though with their 2011 Estate Cabernet Franc ($25), which had an alluring aroma of red fruit without any hint of vegetal. On the palate, it was light and easy drinking, with delicious cherry and raspberry flavors, with some herbal notes, though not any green pepper. Mild tannins, nicely balanced, and with a pleasing finish, this wine would be enjoyable on its own or paired with food. Highly recommended.
The 2012 Chateau Le Berriere Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($10-$12) was another excellent value. Crisp and clean, this wine presents delicious flavor of lemon, peach, floral elements, and a strong minerality. Bring on the oysters for this wine and enjoy!
The Chivas Regal Gold Signature is a blended Scotch whiskey, with a minimum age of 18 years though some of the whiskies are aged as much as 40 years. It is aged in old bourbon and sherry barrels. I enjoyed this smooth, easy drinking whiskey with a nice blend of spice, caramel, dried fruits and hint of maple syrup.
(Please be advised that I received a complimentary media pass, guest room, and food allowance for attending the Mohegan Sun WineFest.)
Thursday Sips & Nibbles
I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) This year fall in love with not one night of Valentine’s Day celebrations, but four. The Beehive will indulge lovers with “Four Days of Lovin’” - a four-day long event featuring Valentine’s Day inspired dishes from Executive Chef Marc Orfaly, signature cocktail specials and live jazz performances from Thursday, February 13 through Sunday, February 16.
Chef Orfaly’s special cupid’s day dishes include Pressed Foie Gras, duck confit and artichoke terrine with vermouth soaked mustard seeds, toasted brioche and pickled sun chokes ($15), Seared Maine Scallops, black caviar, crème fraiche potato and celery root salad with mizuna greens ($16), 'Heart & Sole,’ broiled lemon sole with ragout of porcini, hearts of palm, fava beans and asparagus finished with mushroom jus ($28), and Australian Rack of Lamb, olive oil and whole grain mustard potatoes with sautéed spinach, and confit lamb shoulder ($38).
Lovers can shake things up with one of The Beehive’s Valentine’s Day concoctions like the Chocolate-Covered Cherry Martini made with vodka, Dorda Double Chocolate liquor and Cherry Herring ($12), the Willy Wonka made with Jim Beam, Dorda Double Chocolate liquor, Campari and fresh orange juice ($12.50), and finally The Heart Beat featuring Rose water topped with Domain Chandon Brut and garnished with a chocolate strawberry ($12.50).
Reservations are highly recommended so please call 617-423-0069.
Performance Schedule:
Thursday, February 13:
· Early Evening Jazz set with Doug Johnson: 6:30PM - 8:30PM
· Late night Jazz set with Greg Hopkins: 10:00PM - 2:00AM
Friday, February 14:
· Early Evening Jazz set with Kevin Harris: 5:00PM-7:00PM
· Mid-Evening Jazz set with Michelle Wilson: 7:30PM-9:30PM
· Late Night Jazz set with Mr. Nick: 10:00PM-2:00AM
Saturday, February 15:
· Saturday Jazz Brunch: 10:00AM to 3:00PM
· Early Evening Jazz set with Sharon Sugar Brown: 6:30PM-8:00PM
· Late Night Jazz set with Karma Exchange: 10:00PM-12:00AM
Sunday, February 16:
· Sunday Jazz Brunch: 10:00AM to 3:00PM
· Sunday Blues Jazz set with Bruce Bears 8:00PM-12:00AM
2) This Valentine’s Day wine, dine and seduce your significant other with a romantic rendezvous at Tryst, the award-winning boutique restaurant and lounge located in Arlington. Tryst’s quaint backdrop will set the perfect mood for an evening of Valentine’s Day surprises and romance while guests enjoy a special menu created by Executive Chef and Owner Paul Turano. Chef Turano’s Valentine’s Day three-course prix fixe menu will be offered exclusively on Friday, February 14 and as a la carte specials in addition to the regular menu on Saturday, February 15 & Sunday, February 16. Guests can relax, reminisce and indulge in Tryst’s specials including Duck & Kabocha Tart, Cioppino, Bucatini Carbonara and Beef Short Rib as well as sweet desserts such as Baked Apple Dumpling, Chocolate Brownie Bread Pudding and Italian Bignè.
COST: $45 per person (tax and gratuity not included). Optional $25 wine pairing.
Reservations are highly recommended. Please call 781-641-2227.
3) On Saturday, February 8, from 1pm-5pm, the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, will team up with Ye Olde Pepper Companie, the oldest candy company in the United States, for a special Valentine’s Day tasting featuring a selection of Wine ConneXtion’s most popular Malbecs paired with Ye Olde’s signature chocolates.
Ye Olde Pepper Companies’ rich history dates back to 1806 when a woman named Mrs. Spencer landed on the shores of Salem, MA following a tragic shipwreck. To make a living, Mrs. Spencer began selling her candies on the steps of the First Church. Her signature confection, the “Salem Gibralter,” is said to be the first candy made and sold commercially, being distributed internationally by sea captains.
Guests will not want to miss an opportunity to sample a wide variety of Malbecs. Walk-ins welcome all day. Must be 21+.
4) Check out some of the new winter happening in Kendall Square at Belly Wine Bar.
Aglio e Olio – Late-night pasta party
$8.00 per person
Aglio e Olio is a Rome-inspired, family-style nightcap of spaghetti with garlic and oil (or aglio e olio for those from lo stivale) for the night owl set. Guests are welcomed to wind down, sip vino and slurp noodles every night from 10:00 PM until closing time because really, a heaping bowl of pasta is way better than a full night’s sleep.
Spare Parts – Ensuring nothing goes to waste
Plates served a la carte. Menu changes daily
Since his appointment as Executive Chef this fall, Andrew Bonner has brought some spirited spontaneity to the Belly menu, showcased through the ever-changing “Spare Parts” menu. Written on a chalk board in the dining room, the daily specials exemplify Executive Chef Andrew Bonner's passion for expanding guests’ palates and experimenting with seasonal New England flavors, as seen in dishes like Sweet and Spicy Duck Wings, Open Faced Grass Fed Beef Pastrami with Sauce Whatever and Oxtail Ravioli with Maitake Mushrooms & Carrots.
Three Blind Wines – Grape trivia for the taste buds
$20 per flight
Every Monday night
Belly puts wine geeks to the test every Monday with Three Blind Wines, a mystery flight game comprised of three unknown grapes. Guests are challenged by the Belly team to guess the names of all three sips; if successful, the following week’s flight is on the house!
Coravin Pours – No need for vintages to collect dust
Approximately $20 to $38 per 5 oz. pour
Available daily
As card carrying Kendall Square wine nerds, the Belly team sends serious props to Greg Lambrecht, the Boston-based entrepreneur who engineered the Coravin wine opener, a way to drink vino without removing the cork, hence avoiding oxidization and keeping bottles as fresh as the first pour right until the last drop. Madonna! Belly employs a Coravin of its own to serve experimental guests rare pours without sacrificing taste or quality. A library of grapes available via Coravin includes magnums of 2004 Chateau Pibernon Bandol, 1993 Breton Bourgueil “Les Perrieres” and more, all served tableside from Coravin to taste tube and ultimately into the eager sipper’s glass.
1) This year fall in love with not one night of Valentine’s Day celebrations, but four. The Beehive will indulge lovers with “Four Days of Lovin’” - a four-day long event featuring Valentine’s Day inspired dishes from Executive Chef Marc Orfaly, signature cocktail specials and live jazz performances from Thursday, February 13 through Sunday, February 16.
Chef Orfaly’s special cupid’s day dishes include Pressed Foie Gras, duck confit and artichoke terrine with vermouth soaked mustard seeds, toasted brioche and pickled sun chokes ($15), Seared Maine Scallops, black caviar, crème fraiche potato and celery root salad with mizuna greens ($16), 'Heart & Sole,’ broiled lemon sole with ragout of porcini, hearts of palm, fava beans and asparagus finished with mushroom jus ($28), and Australian Rack of Lamb, olive oil and whole grain mustard potatoes with sautéed spinach, and confit lamb shoulder ($38).
Lovers can shake things up with one of The Beehive’s Valentine’s Day concoctions like the Chocolate-Covered Cherry Martini made with vodka, Dorda Double Chocolate liquor and Cherry Herring ($12), the Willy Wonka made with Jim Beam, Dorda Double Chocolate liquor, Campari and fresh orange juice ($12.50), and finally The Heart Beat featuring Rose water topped with Domain Chandon Brut and garnished with a chocolate strawberry ($12.50).
Reservations are highly recommended so please call 617-423-0069.
Performance Schedule:
Thursday, February 13:
· Early Evening Jazz set with Doug Johnson: 6:30PM - 8:30PM
· Late night Jazz set with Greg Hopkins: 10:00PM - 2:00AM
Friday, February 14:
· Early Evening Jazz set with Kevin Harris: 5:00PM-7:00PM
· Mid-Evening Jazz set with Michelle Wilson: 7:30PM-9:30PM
· Late Night Jazz set with Mr. Nick: 10:00PM-2:00AM
Saturday, February 15:
· Saturday Jazz Brunch: 10:00AM to 3:00PM
· Early Evening Jazz set with Sharon Sugar Brown: 6:30PM-8:00PM
· Late Night Jazz set with Karma Exchange: 10:00PM-12:00AM
Sunday, February 16:
· Sunday Jazz Brunch: 10:00AM to 3:00PM
· Sunday Blues Jazz set with Bruce Bears 8:00PM-12:00AM
2) This Valentine’s Day wine, dine and seduce your significant other with a romantic rendezvous at Tryst, the award-winning boutique restaurant and lounge located in Arlington. Tryst’s quaint backdrop will set the perfect mood for an evening of Valentine’s Day surprises and romance while guests enjoy a special menu created by Executive Chef and Owner Paul Turano. Chef Turano’s Valentine’s Day three-course prix fixe menu will be offered exclusively on Friday, February 14 and as a la carte specials in addition to the regular menu on Saturday, February 15 & Sunday, February 16. Guests can relax, reminisce and indulge in Tryst’s specials including Duck & Kabocha Tart, Cioppino, Bucatini Carbonara and Beef Short Rib as well as sweet desserts such as Baked Apple Dumpling, Chocolate Brownie Bread Pudding and Italian Bignè.
COST: $45 per person (tax and gratuity not included). Optional $25 wine pairing.
Reservations are highly recommended. Please call 781-641-2227.
3) On Saturday, February 8, from 1pm-5pm, the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, will team up with Ye Olde Pepper Companie, the oldest candy company in the United States, for a special Valentine’s Day tasting featuring a selection of Wine ConneXtion’s most popular Malbecs paired with Ye Olde’s signature chocolates.
Ye Olde Pepper Companies’ rich history dates back to 1806 when a woman named Mrs. Spencer landed on the shores of Salem, MA following a tragic shipwreck. To make a living, Mrs. Spencer began selling her candies on the steps of the First Church. Her signature confection, the “Salem Gibralter,” is said to be the first candy made and sold commercially, being distributed internationally by sea captains.
Guests will not want to miss an opportunity to sample a wide variety of Malbecs. Walk-ins welcome all day. Must be 21+.
4) Check out some of the new winter happening in Kendall Square at Belly Wine Bar.
Aglio e Olio – Late-night pasta party
$8.00 per person
Aglio e Olio is a Rome-inspired, family-style nightcap of spaghetti with garlic and oil (or aglio e olio for those from lo stivale) for the night owl set. Guests are welcomed to wind down, sip vino and slurp noodles every night from 10:00 PM until closing time because really, a heaping bowl of pasta is way better than a full night’s sleep.
Spare Parts – Ensuring nothing goes to waste
Plates served a la carte. Menu changes daily
Since his appointment as Executive Chef this fall, Andrew Bonner has brought some spirited spontaneity to the Belly menu, showcased through the ever-changing “Spare Parts” menu. Written on a chalk board in the dining room, the daily specials exemplify Executive Chef Andrew Bonner's passion for expanding guests’ palates and experimenting with seasonal New England flavors, as seen in dishes like Sweet and Spicy Duck Wings, Open Faced Grass Fed Beef Pastrami with Sauce Whatever and Oxtail Ravioli with Maitake Mushrooms & Carrots.
Three Blind Wines – Grape trivia for the taste buds
$20 per flight
Every Monday night
Belly puts wine geeks to the test every Monday with Three Blind Wines, a mystery flight game comprised of three unknown grapes. Guests are challenged by the Belly team to guess the names of all three sips; if successful, the following week’s flight is on the house!
Coravin Pours – No need for vintages to collect dust
Approximately $20 to $38 per 5 oz. pour
Available daily
As card carrying Kendall Square wine nerds, the Belly team sends serious props to Greg Lambrecht, the Boston-based entrepreneur who engineered the Coravin wine opener, a way to drink vino without removing the cork, hence avoiding oxidization and keeping bottles as fresh as the first pour right until the last drop. Madonna! Belly employs a Coravin of its own to serve experimental guests rare pours without sacrificing taste or quality. A library of grapes available via Coravin includes magnums of 2004 Chateau Pibernon Bandol, 1993 Breton Bourgueil “Les Perrieres” and more, all served tableside from Coravin to taste tube and ultimately into the eager sipper’s glass.
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