SENA14: Pathways to Sustainability & Global Salmon Initiative

Farmed salmon still has a bad reputation in some circles, though that is often due to outdated perceptions about the industry. Much positive change has occurred, though all will agree that more is necessary. And that was the focus of the last conference session I attended at the Seafood Expo North America. Pathways to Sustainability - A discussion of the practical solutions to accelerate the aquaculture industry towards greater sustainability concentrated on salmon aquaculture and the Global Salmon Initiative (GSI), of which several other conference sessions had already mentioned. The GSI is certainly one of the hottest seafood topics at the moment, many saying that it is a landmark act, a game changer.

What is GSI? Begun in April 2012, it is a "leadership initiative," a partnering of 15 companies, from 5 countries, and covering 70% of the global farmed salmon industry. Clearly, it is a huge undertaking with the potential to affect a substantial portion of the industry. Their goal is to create a more sustainable farmed salmon industry in three areas: environmental impact, social responsibility and economic stability. The GSI also has important partnerships with the WWF and the Food & Agricultural Organization (FAO) of the United Nations. All the members of GSI have also agreed to adopt, by 2020, the standards of responsible aquaculture set forth by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) This all seems like an impressive start.

The Pathways to Sustainability conference was moderator by Avrim Lazar, the Principal Consultant to the Global Salmon Initiative, and the three panelists included Jason Clay, Senior Vice President of Market Transformation at WWF; Doris Soto, Senior Aquaculture Officer of the FAO; and Jeroen Leffelaar, the Global Co-Head Animal Protein at Rabobank

Avrim began the session noting the future food crisis as the world population continues to grow, and more and more individuals seek out animal protein. He believes that we need to find ways to accelerate the growth of aquaculture to meet this needs, sooner than later, but also doing so in a way that is sustainable and creates quality. He believes that the GSI is poised to do exactly this, through the power of collaboration. By working together, sharing a collective intelligence, the group can create faster progress than any single company can do on their own. Any discovery made by one company in the group will be shared with all of them. This is certainly a truism in most, if not all, industries, that working together in groups can often accomplish much more, and quicker, than lone companies.

He continued noting that GSI need a framework upon which it could measure its progress so they adopted the ASC standards. They view this as a starting point, with the potential to change in the future if something better arises. Avrim also stated that "food production is part of a system" and that the industry and conversation groups need to work together as they share common goals, and can accomplish more than if they oppose each other. Finally, he noted that "you cannot change without capital." that it all comes down to money.

Jason spoke next and also began noting the potential future food crisis, noting that we need to double our food production by 2050. To battle this, we need to build awareness and consensus. He stated that "everyone who eats is an expert in food." He then began discussing GSI, saying that it is a "game changer." He states that working together, sharing information is important but transparency is necessary as well, with frequent reporting needed. Jason was proud to say that after the initial announcement of the GSI, other industries contacted the WWF to see how they could create something similar. This collaborative idea could spread to other aspects of the seafood industry, as well as other food industries.

Jeroen then told us a bit about the need for banks to finance sustainable companies. The Rabobank was established in the Netherlands in 1898 and most of their international business is now in Food and Agribusiness financing. Like Avrim, he believes sustainability efforts need capital, and that a bank willing to support such endeavors needs to exist. He also made another important point, that third party certifications on sustainability are a necessary tool for communicating with the public. Salmon aquaculture is seen very differently than land based farms, and that is unfair. He pointed out a fish vs a rasher of bacon, noting that the bacon is the less healthy option, but noting that pig farming gets far less of a bad reputation.

Doris spoke about why the FAO is partnering with GSI, noting how salmon aquaculture is one of the most technologically advanced systems in the world. However, technology is insufficient on its own and requires good government in place as well. The FAO is promoting greater aquaculture in Africa, as well as seeking good government there to keep it in place. She also stated that the GSI would lead to better technology dissemination to its member and better management through its ecosystem approach.

There was then a Q&A session, which provided further important information. Jason noted that they had developed processing procedures that would allow them to generate up to 70% of the flesh from a fish, rather than the prior 35%. That doubles the capacity of a fish to provide sustenance, leading to less waste and less need for feed.

Avrim also mentioned that the ASC standards include social sustainability, and not just environmental sustainability. That is very important, and as I have said previously, it is that element of social sustainability that might be the next step. Many in the seafood industry are primarily concerned with environmental sustainability, but it is time for that next step forward.

Some of the other intriguing bits from the Q&A included:

--Europe is ok with GMM (Genetically Modified Micro-Organisms) but not GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms). That is not something I previously knew and is something I would like to research more.
--Jason stated that certification rewards people who are already better and doesn't help those who are not. However, he still sees it as a good tool even if it is not perfect. He also noted that certification is education for consumers who don't need to know all the details behind it.
--It was raised that sustainability is not black or white, but rather is a spectrum of more or less sustainable. A very important distinction.

After this conference, I followed up some on the GSI, to learn more about what they have accomplished so far. I see much potential in such a large, collaborative endeavor, but wanted to see if it was living up to it or not.

A few of the positive steps they have taken include:
--Using hydrogen peroxide, on a large scale, to treat sea lice
--Starting to remove copper treated nets
--Investigating new feed sources for Omega-3s

As it is a relatively new organization though, you cannot expect miracles over night. It will all take time but GSI is certainly worthy of watching, and hopefully it will be the game changer that some believe. The future food crisis is real, and we desperately need to boost food production. Aquaculture may be that solution, but it must proceed forward in the most sustainable way possible.

SENA14: How To Cook Seafood

"In the hands of an able cook, fish can become an inexhaustible source of perpetual delight."
---Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

As I mentioned in a previous post about the Seafood Expo North America, annual seafood consumption has decreased down to 14.4 pounds although it is recommended that Americans consume at least 26 pounds. Other reports indicate that seafood consumption at restaurants is actually increasing in many places meaning that less and less people are cooking seafood at home. Cost is a significant factor in this situation, but another important factor is that people are afraid of cooking seafood at home. Or they simply don't understand the best ways to prepare seafood at home. In a formal survey on Facebook, even some of my more food-oriented friends admitted to not being confident in cooking seafood.

Do you have difficulty preparing seafood at home? Do you know how to cook fish and shellfish? Are there reasons why you don't cook more seafood at home?

Fish can be prepared in a myriad of methods, from raw to baked, fried to grilled. It can be added to soups, stews, risottos, casseroles, stir fry or sauces. Seafood can be prepared very simply and still possess plenty of taste. Buy a seafood cookbook and experiment if you want to make more intricate dishes. Seek out help from other cooks about the best ways to prepare seafood. It isn't as hard to prepare as you think.

While I was at SENA, I wanted to gather some seafood cooking recipes and tips to help my readers, to try to make it easier for them to cook seafood at home. At SENA, one of the primary themes was that consumers need more education, and that is certainly true in regards to seafood preparation. Though SENA is mainly a trade show, a fair number of the exhibitors offered recipes or small cookbooks that you could take home. Plus, they offered plenty of verbal advice on how to best prepare the seafood they had to offer. As I can't really share all those written recipes I picked up, I garnered some links to recipes on some of their websites. In addition, I got a couple of chefs to provide some basic advice for home cooks.

Chef Justin Timineri is the executive chef and culinary ambassador of the Florida Dept. of Agriculture, as well as the resident chef on How To Do Florida, a television series where he primarily discusses and cooks seafood. Chef Timineri stated that consumers definitely should ask where there seafood comes from, choosing domestic over imported, and seeking what is seasonal. And of course he recommends Gulf seafood, stating it needs little preparation. As Chef Timineri says, "With seafood, less is better." He also suggests that home cooks begin by preparing easier seafood, such as shrimp and clams, before moving up to the more difficult fin fish. Rather than select a new recipe, you can use any old recipe, substituting seafood for whatever other protein is in the recipe, such as beef or chicken.

Check out the Gulf Coast Seafood Recipes where you will find recipes for seafood like crab, shrimp oysters, and fin fish. The site has lots of search capability so you can modify your search to exactly what you need.

Chef Nathan Fong, a food stylist, journalist, and TV personality who cooked at the British Colombia booth, also presented some basic information for home cooks. However, his advice was not cooking per se, but involved how best to select seafood for purchase. Check out his advice and learn a very important foundation to seafood preparation.

Jacqueline Church, who helped out Chef Fong at the Expo, operates Kitchen Confidence, providing private cooking classes on a wide variety of topics. If you want to learn how to prepare seafood, you could take her class: "Forget Fishsticks! Enjoying sustainable seafood at home. What to shop for, how to prepare it. Sustainable seafood 101 and great recipes and tips. Cooking fish en papillote, Shrimp-fried rice, Whole fish en croute (baked in salt crust); even an easy microwave poached fish with ginger-scallion sauce." Could be a fun way to gain more confidence in cooking fish at home.

Verlasso Salmon Recipes provides 24 salmon recipes, including the intriguing Verlasso Smoked Salmon and Chive Biscuits. There is also a page, Verlasso Salmon Cooking Techniques, which details six techniques to prepare you salmon, from grilling to poaching.

As I previously mentioned, it is ok to eat most Chilean Sea Bass but maybe you need a recipe to enjoy it once again. Check out Colto Toothfish/Chilean Sea Bass Recipes, sixteen recipes including Wok-fried Patagonian Toothfish. I still like my own Sake Miso Glaze on Chilean SeaBass.

Mississippi Gulf Seafood Recipes is a treasure trove with multiple cookbooks for shrimp, oysters, crab and fin fish. Lots of recipes, of varying levels of difficulty.

Alaska Seafood Recipes also offers lots of recipes, from appetizers to fish tacos, soups to sandwiches.

Florida Seafood Recipes provides recipes for everything from tuna to oysters, and snapper to shrimp.

Louisiana Seafood Recipes gets a little more daring, offering recipes for breakfast to dessert, and includes seafood such as crabs, crawfish, shrimp and even alligator.

Maryland Seafood Recipes has over a dozen recipes, many of them for crab, as would be expected. If you want recipes for items such as black cod, sole and pink shrimp, then check out Oregon Trawl Seafood Recipes. Or even check North Carolina Seafood Book, finding recipes involving crabs, scallops, clams, shrimp and oysters.

If you love salmon, and who doesn't, you can peruse Scottish Salmon Recipes for recipes including sushi to omelettes. For something other than salmon, the Scotland Seafood Recipes has 30 recipes, for everything from pizza to clam cakes, using a variety of seafood.

The Shrimp Recipes from Wood's Fisheries has some interesting dishes such as Shrimp Tandori.

I love mussels and they are relatively easy to cook, and the broth/sauce is the most important element. On the Prince Edward Aqua Farms Shellfish Recipes there are recipes for more than just mussels, but also oysters, clams, and quahogs. However, Chef Alain Bosse, who prepared some delicious mussels at SENA, has a new cookbook due out next month and it sounds fascinating, Mussels: Preparing, Cooking and Enjoying a Sensational Seafood.

 What is your best advice for cooking seafood at home?

"I've been making sushi for 38 years, and I'm still learning. You have to consider the size and color of the ingredients, how much salt and vinegar to use and how the seasons affect the fattiness of the fish."
--Masaharu Morimoto

SENA14: The Seven Keys of Sustainability

"Health to the ocean means health for us."
--Sylvia Earle

As I have already mentioned, Sustainability was prevalent at the 2014 Seafood Expo North America (SENA). Each year, the prominence of sustainability has seemingly increased. As you meander down the many aisles of the Expo, you find exhibitor after exhibitor promoting the sustainability of their products. You will still get disappointed at times, seeing items like Shark Fin still being sold, but the overall picture is one of hope. If you knew little about seafood sustainability, you can garner quite an education at the Expo, from attending seminars to speaking with various exhibitors. And you can explore a myriad of viewpoints on a wide range of sustainability issues, from aquaculture to traceability.

In the Sustainability Conference Track alone, there were seven seminars (and I attended a few of them), including:
--Gulf Seafood Today: Marketing, Traceability, and Sustainability
--Is Aquaculture Sustainable?
--Lessons Learned: How the Shrimp Industry Can Recover and be More Sustainable in a Post-EMS World
--Putting the "Food" Back in Seafood: Lessons Learned from Sustainable Food Systems
--SeaFood Business Summit: Food Waste Solutions
--Global Aquaculture Alliance presents: Mini GOAL
--Pathways to Sustainability - A discussion of the practical solutions to accelerate the aquaculture industry towards greater sustainability.

In the main exhibit hall, there were numerous organizations devoted to sustainable issues, such as Monterey Bay Aquarium, Trace Register, Marine Stewardship Council, Fish Choice, and Seaweb, and each of them possesses valuable intelligence. As usual, I stopped at several of the booths to get updates on their progress.


From all of the information I gathered, as well as from using knowledge I have previously acquired, I think we can break the current status of seafood sustainability down into seven key points. Some of these points are more obvious, while a few others go much deeper into the area of sustainability. In some respects, these are the themes of sustainability that were presented at the Expo, common threads presented by various speakers and exhibitors. The issue of sustainability has been evolving over the years at the Expo, and it has been fascinating to see that progress as well as to try to speculate what will occur in the future.

1. Seafood sustainability is vital.
No one is going to dispute this simple fact. Sustainability is essential the the continued existence of the human race. We cannot continue to destroy our environment and deplete our essential resources. The fact that so many fisheries are now seeking to be sustainable is indicative of its importance. A common thread at many conference sessions was that we are facing a serious crisis in the near future, a growing population which is going to need much more food. Studies estimate that we will need 60% more food by 2050, as well as 60% more animal protein by 2030. How will we feed all of these people unless sustainability becomes one of our most important objectives? There is little need to go into further detail on this point as it is simply accepted as a valid truth.

2. Seafood sustainability is complex.
I believe that everyone will also agree that sustainability is a complex issue. It is difficult to even get people to agree on a definition of sustainability. What aspects should sustainability include? There are plenty of different standards and certifications for sustainability so it is easy to understand why consumers might be confused. An attendee at one of the aquaculture sessions made an important point, that sustainability is not a black or white issue, that you cannot say a fishery is sustainable or not. Instead, sustainability is a spectrum, and you are either more or less sustainable to some base point. And that is so very true when you examine the various exhibitors at the Expo.

For example, I have watched Verlasso Salmon progress over the last couple years, getting more sustainable each year. Though they have received a Good Alternative rating from Seafood Watch, which many would say makes Verlasso sustainable, that is insufficient for Verlasso. They are continuing to improve their operations, to make it better and more sustainable. I also wrote earlier about the return of Toothfish, that much is now sustainable, but you have to look closely at your sourcing, and the Toothfish industry continues to work at getting better and more sustainable.

3. Seafood sustainability is in the details.
So how do you know what is sustainable or not? Or should I say, how do we know the extent of sustainability of a specific seafood? The answer must be discovered in a myriad of details, in the multitude of questions that analyze the question. For consumers, it can be a bit easier if they rely on third party certifications, such as that of the Marine Stewardship Council, which currently certifies about 10.5% of all wild seafood, covering about 15,000 consumer facing products. The consumer just has to look for a certification label or logo on their seafood. They don't have to ask lots of questions to know what they want to know. But for those who do want to know more, there are plenty of questions that must be addressed.

4. Sustainability Isn't A Major Consumer Concern
Unfortunately, though those connected to the seafood industry understand the importance of seafood sustainability, the average consumer still doesn't understand the issue and it is not high on their priority list when purchasing seafood. Price and taste are far more important to their purchasing decisions. In an informal survey of local restaurants, the owners indicated to me that nearly none of their customers ever asked about sustainability. At the Expo, Bob Hartman, the Seafood Director of Demoulas Market Basket; stated only a small portion of their customers ask about sustainability. Several key articles in the seafood media have also supported this matter. Trying to educate consumers about sustainability, when many of them don't care, can be an exercise in futility.

However, there is a small, though vocal and powerful, minority of consumers who are pushing restaurants, supermarkets and shop vendors about seafood sustainability. I know that I am one of that minority, often questioning others about the sustainability of their seafood selection. Fortunately, the vocal minority is being listened to, and more and more establishments are selling sustainable seafood, whether most of their customers ask for it or not. So restaurant and markets cannot ignore the issue of sustainability.

5. Sustainability Is Now a Given
The basic question for fishermen, aquaculture farmers, vendors, restaurants and others is no longer whether they should be sustainable or not. That question has already been largely settled, and the vast majority know and desire sustainable seafood. According to the Seafood Watch: "Of the 242 U.S. fishery species assessed by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program, 95% of commercial landings have earned a “Best Choice” or “Good Alternative” recommendation as environmentally responsible seafood options." The Seafood Watch also is now certifying some individual fisheries, such as Verlasso Salmon.

All of this is indicative that efforts devoted to sustainability have worked to a large degree, that it has become strongly entrenched in the seafood industry. The new question for the seafood industry, and especially the aquaculture arena, is how they can become more sustainable. Improvements are continual and ongoing, and there is much study and research in ways to improve, from trying to reduce FIFO ratios to decreasing chances of disease. As I spoke to exhibitors, the talks were almost always how their operations are getting better and better.

6. Aquaculture May Be The Future
In a span of only about forty years, aquaculture has made huge strides in technology and progress. Aquaculture currently supplies about 50% of our food supply and might be the path to averting the crisis of a growing population which will need much more food. As about 80% of wild fish stocks have been fully exploited or in decline, we need aquaculture to step in and provide the necessary food to meet these future needs. At multiple conference sessions, the importance of expanding aquaculture was stressed and it is something that probably cannot be denied. The main obstacle are perceptions that aquaculture may not be sustainable.

However, those fears were largely dispelled at multiple conference sessions. Such complaints were valid against aquaculture a number of years ago, but positive changes have come and are continuing. There is certainly much more that needs to be done, but the industry understands that and is working to resolve the problems. New collaborations like the Global Salmon Initiative offer a path to the future where the industry works together, rather than be competitors, to solve their united issues. The growing influence of the Aquaculture Stewardship Council has also contributed to positive change.

7. What Comes Next?
During a conversation with Martin Excel to COLTO, he raised an intriguing question: "What is the next step beyond sustainability?" As more and more fisheries become sustainable, as it becomes commonplace, then being sustainable no longer really gives a company a significant competitive edge. They will still seek such an edge, so what will be the driving force of the future? What will help differentiate companies from each other? The more I have pondered these questions, the more I have been drawn to a potential answer, one inspired by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC).

In current discussions of sustainability in the seafood industry, the discussion usually centers on environmental issues, such as pollution and waste, such as depleted stocks and bycatch. However, in the sustainability standards of the ASC, they also address social issues, an important aspect in other sustainability discussions. This touches on the welfare of workers, a fair wage, safety, and much more. With the recent headlines of the abuse of Thai seafood workers, this is an issue that is finally receiving some of the press it deserves. Social sustainability could thus be the next big step for the seafood industry. It is an issue that you hopefully will hear about much more at next year's Expo and in the years to come.  

"Fishing is much more than fish. It is the great occasion when we may return to the fine simplicity of our forefathers."
--Herbert Hoover

SENA14: Food Of Interest

"When you cook, you take a life. When you eat fish, or meat, you take a life. And you must be very respectful of the ingredients and that is very important."
--Joel Robuchon

One of the great joys of attending Seafood Expo North America is the opportunity to explore the bounty of the Seven Seas, to gorge yourself on a vast variety of seafood samples. The exhibitors provide food samples to lure and entice potential purchasers, to show them the quality and taste of their products. Without sampling the seafood, how would a purchaser know whether he should buy it or not? You'll find cold and hot seafood samples, from oysters to fried catfish, and recipes that are simple to complex. I always encourage people attending the Expo to broaden their palates and taste new foods, different seafoods that they have never tried before. You might find a new favorite.

Overall, much of the seafood is prepared very simply, and in some respects, creativity takes a back seat. However, you still will find a handful of chefs creating some intriguing dishes. The Expo might not be the best venue to cook a more complex dish, especially as many booths possess only rudimentary cooking devices, but it can be done. For example, the Louisiana Seafood pavilion always seems to do a good job of creating some delicious and inventive dishes.

I taste many different items at the show, though certainly not everything that is offered as there is just too much for any single person to taste. In general, I enjoy most of what I eat but only a few items truly merit to be highlighted here. I want to share with my readers those foods which were my favorites, what I consider some of the tastiest, most compelling and interesting of all the samples I enjoyed. If you attended the Seafood Show, and have your own favorite samples, feel free to tell me about them in the comments.

Last year, I stopped by the British Columbia pavilion and our Canadian neighbor does an excellent job of offering fresh, sustainable seafood. In British Colombia, they produce over 100 species of seafood, exporting about 80% and the U.S. receives about 57% of those exports. And what is important is that their seafood tastes great, from their salmon to their caviar. As I enjoyed their samples so much last year, it was a no brainer that I would return again this year to see what they were serving. And I wasn't disappointed in the least. Next year, make sure you stop by this pavilion.

Once again, Chef Nathan Fong, a food stylist, journalist, and TV personality, who was born in Vancouver, presided at the pavilion, investing his deep passion and creativity into his cooking. Last year, he produced my favorite samples at the Expo and has repeated that honor this year. With lots of energy, he sourced some of the best seafood of B.C., and created at least seven different dishes for attendees to sample and savor.

Look at the list of the items that Chef Fong created! French eggs & caviar? How hedonistic. And using the new Nextjen Gluten-Free batter blend, he made a fried fish. This is a batter which you'll never realize is gluten-free as there is no sacrifice of taste. And this list was not even complete.

Joining Chef Fong, helping him prepare the dishes at the Expo, was my friend Jacqueline Church, a writer and private cooking coach.

One of the dishes not listed on the above menu was some Albacore tuna with a sesame sauce. Such a great texture to the fish and the sesame sauce enhanced the flavor. Savory and light, clean and balanced.

This Seafood Ceviche sat in a fried wonton skin, and containied shrimp, crab and salmon. Another fresh and light dish, the crispiness of the wonton enhanced the texture and taste of the ceviche.

There is a running joke with my friends that I don't eat anything green so it will be a big surprise to them that one of my favorite items at the Expo this year was green, kelp that is farmed raised in Maine. Ocean Approved, which was founded in 2006, was the first kelp farm in the U.S. and they grow it sustainability in the cold, clean waters of Maine. What a fascinating local story and this is the first time I had learned anything about it.

They see kelp farming as an industry and not just something done by their own company, and in fact, even have a Kelp Farming Manual on their website. They want to share their knowledge and experience with others, a noble sentiment. They start the annual growth process in September by creating seed in their nursery, and then plant it from October to December, finally harvesting it around March.

Upon harvesting, the kelp is cut, blanched and then froze. Interestingly, the kelp's biological composition allows it to freeze and thaw twice a day, with the tides. It is fresh frozen, never dried, and sold in one pound frozen pouches. To serve it, you just have to thaw, drain and serve. Kelp is very healthy for you, being gluten free and low in calories, carbohydrates and fat. It also is an excellent source of calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and iron, as well as one of the few foods with the nutrient iodine, which is essential for hormone balance.

These Berry Kelp Smoothies were a great breakfast drink! Made with banana, frozen berries, mint leaves, kelp, and nondairy milk, it had a strong berry and fruity flavor, and you would never have known it contained kelp. A great and tasty way to get all those health benefits of kelp, and even veggie haters would love this smoothie.

They also offered a Kelp Slaw and a Kelp Savory for sampling, and the Savory appealed to me as well. Made with white vinegar, salt, cayenne pepper and fresh dill, it was almost like a pickled kelp, which had a nice crunch and intriguing taste. It didn't taste fishy but more savory and briny, with a hint of heat. I'm going to have to get myself some of the Ocean Approved Kelp.

I guess I was on a sea veggie kick at the Expo this year. Another of my favorite foods was from a Korean company, Manjun Foods Co., which is currently seeking a distributor. Their Laverland Crunch products are made from laver, which is what the Japanese call nori, the "seaweed" wrap you find on some sushi. They sell a Seaweed Salad Topping, which can easily be sprinkled on any salad, and I found it to have a flavorful crunch, which would enhance the savoriness of any salad. It is not bland in the least, having a nice, spiced taste.

They also sell Crispy Seaweed Snacks, in a Classic flavor as well as a Wasabi. These are thin, square sheets of nori, and I was taken with the Wasabi-flavored one. It was pleasantly spicy hot, with lots of briny, umami flavors too. A very different snack but which you will probably find addictive.

The California Sea Urchin Commission supports sustainable caught sea urchin and has established best practices for divers and processors. Diving for sea urchins generally occurs from on the coast from San Diego to Fort Bragg, and there are about 300 divers, engaged in a rather dangerous profession. It used to be that most of the urchin would be sold to Japan, but about 1/3 of the catch now is sold within the U.S. I do love the rich, briny creaminess of sea urchin.

They offered a unique Uni Shooter for sampling, which was made with uni, ginger beer, and wasabi. It made for an intriguing shot, with the ginger flavors enhancing the natural flavors of the uni, and with a spicy kick from the wasabi. These shooters proved very popular with the attendees, and there was a long line when they were offered.

Two years ago, I praised the smoked Salmon from the Santa Barbara Smokehouse, which hangs their Scottish salmon in a brick kiln for a slow smoke. This year, I enjoyed the earthy flavor of their Prime Tenderloin With Black Truffle. This is part of their Cambridge House Private Reserve Traditional Rope Hung Salmon line, and the salmon was meaty and rich, with a light coating of black truffle that enhanced the savoriness of the salmon. It was a decadent addition to an already silky and compelling salmon.

Rumi Japan is a seafood wholesaler and processor, with a large portfolio of different seafood, but their main attraction at the Expo was their Hamachi Nigiri. Rumi Japan uses a special technique, called Ikijime, to prepare their Yellowtail. This is a nerve-removal processing where the head and gut are removed and cut into three pieces. The bones are then removed so only the meat remains and this is supposed to preserve freshness for a very long time. The Hamachi is superb, dense and firm with luxurious fatty flesh. One of the best Hamachi you will taste.

The Prince Edward Aqua Farms presented a kilted Chef Alain Bosse to highlight their mussels. I am a big fan of mussels and the broth is an important aspect of a good mussels dish. Chef Bosse created mussels in a sweet maple curried broth and it was delicious, with a nice blend of spice and sweet. Now, I dislike when maple is too prominent in a dish, but this broth was balanced, and had just the right hint of maple, providing a little sweet. Chef Bosse also has a Mussels cookbook coming out next month.

What did you enjoy sampling at the Seafood Expo?

"The fast fish, not the big fish, eats the small fish."
--Ali Babacan

SENA14: Baja Seas: A New Yellowtail Aquaculture Project

A number of seafood companies bring new products to make their debut launch at the Seafood Expo North America, knowing they will reach the largest audience for a seafood show in North America. I am always intrigued by these new products, seeking out those which I feel have potential and which may show the lead for others. This year, Baja Seas seems to be in the running as one of those pioneers, a company which could lead to a path of greater, sustainable aquaculture in North America.

If you enjoy sushi, you may commonly order Yellowtail, which can be known by a variety of other terms, such as Amberjack, Hamachi, and Kampachi. There are a few different species of Yellowtail, each with their own special taste profile, and the Japanese Hamachi may be the most commonly available as they currently produce about 80% of all Yellowtail globally. The sustainability of Yellowtail also varies, dependent on the specific species and how it is harvested, whether wild or farmed.

According to Seafood Watch, nearly all wild caught Yellowtail, primarily in U.S. waters, is a Good Alternative while farmed Yellowtail from Japan and Australia is an Avoid. As about 75% of all Yellowtail is farmed, that can be a significant issue. One of the most serious complaints about the farmed Yellowtail is the high FIFO ratio. On the other hand, Kampachi, another type of Yellowtail, is farmed in the waters of Hawaii and is considered by many to be a more sustainable choice. There is now a new producer in the waters, seeking to create a sustainable Yellowtail farm in the pristine ocean off the coast of Baja, in Mexico.

At the Expo, I spoke with a few representatives of  Baja Seas, including Luis Astiazaran O., the Director, and they told me about their new operations in the waters of Mexico, noting that they were publicly launching their farmed Yellowtail for the first time at the Expo. Baja Seas conducted extensive research and preparation before beginning their endeavor. They wanted to bring more aquaculture to North America, and also didn't want to select a fish that was a commodity. They didn't want a fish where the price could fluctuate so much. They eventually selected the Hiramasa, a type of Yellowtail, which was native to the waters of Baja.

Mexico was a good fit for them as Mexico is very interested in increasing aquaculture in their country, and Luis noted that they have not had any problems with the government in the least. They have constructed a state of the art hatchery near Ensenada. The original fingerlings for Baja Seas came from some produced at Hubbs-SeaWorld Research Institute but now will be sourced from their own hatchery. They use a Recirculating Aquaculture System, which helps limit pollution and disease, and allegedly have a low Fish In-Fish Out (FIFO) ratio, though no one could tell me an exact figure.

Their objective is to be a sustainable operation, and they seem to be doing many of the right things to minimize their environmental impact. They want to be certified as sustainable, but there doesn't appear to be any standards in place for exactly what they are doing. Their operations though appear to be trying to avoid the problems plaguing the Japanese and Australian Yellowtail farmers. They have invested a substantial amount of capital into their operation, and that is one of their biggest challenges, due to the high standards they have set for themselves.

At harvest, the Hiramasa is about 3-4 kilograms on average, and they ship their fish by truck to San Diego for distribution by Catalina Offshore Products. They have been test marketing their fish in limited places, selling the entire fish, wholesale, for about $7 a pound, and $10 per pound to restaurants. Their current production is about 1-2K pounds per week, which they think will eventually top out at 3K pounds. Their Hiramasa is less fatty than Hamachi, more similar to Kampachi, and they have been trying to learn the market though initial reviews of their fish have been positive.

I asked Luis to provide me his top three reasons why consumers should choose his Hiramasa over Japanese Hamachi. First, he stated that it is a more local product, and thus better for the environment with less of a carbon footprint. Second, he stated it is fresher, as it can be to the distributor within 24 hours. Lastly, he stated that the body of the fish is excellent, and the fish itself is fresh, not frozen.

I had the opportunity to taste their Yellowtail, and the flesh was nice and firm, with a silky, buttery taste, though it is definitely leaner than Hamachi. However, there is still plenty of richness in the flavor, and I believe consumers would enjoy its taste. If it is a more sustainable choice, then it is a very worthy addition to any restaurant, market or kitchen.

The question as to its sustainability is still open, especially as it is such a new operation. There are many positive signs in the practices and procedures they seem to be engaging in, and I am hopeful for their future. More information on their feed and FIFO ratio might be helpful. Overall, this is a company to watch for the future, one with potential to lead the way for increased, sustainable aquaculture in North America. I look forward to watching their progress over the next few years.

SENA14: Eleven Things You Need To Know

“Wherever the fish are, that's where we go.”
--Richard Wagner

The 2014 Seafood Expo North America (SENA) is now over and it's nearly time for this Fish Head Whisperer to take a rest. It has been a hectic, yet fun, three days, meeting great people, learning plenty about all aspects of the seafood industry, tasting a bounty of delicious seafood and finding fascinating stories. This is an event I have promoted and recommended for several years, and which I will continue to support in the coming years. Every local writer who has any interest in seafood should attend this Expo.

To assist people in understanding and appreciating the scope and diversity of the Seafood show, I want to offer my own list of Eleven Ten Things You Need To Know about SENA. These are the basic aspects of the Expo, and I hope this list provides you an excellent summary about some of the most compelling elements of the show, and hopefully give you plenty of reasons why you should make plans to attend next year. Overall, it is a worthy event, and I am sure that I will attend next year's Expo too.

1.  Every exhibit booth tells a story.
Though I repeat this sentiment every year, it remains one of the most essential aspects of the Seafood Expo. It cannot be denied that each exhibit booth has its own unique and interesting tale, fertile inspiration for any writer. The potential story ideas range across a broad spectrum of seafood-related topics, from cooking to sustainability, from fishing to retail advice. You'll find local and personal stories, family businesses that have been around for many years, or new businesses that are trying to succeed. You'll also find international stories, compelling tales about different cultures from all over the world.  You might think you know about common fish like salmon and oysters, but you'll be surprised at what you can learn about them here, while you can also learn about less common fish like barramundi, opah and hoki.

All of this fascinating information will appeal to more than just writers, and can help chefs, home cooks, vendors, fishermen, and much more. Who doesn't enjoy a great story? Scott Nichols, of Verlasso Salmon, once told me that "fish cannot tell their own stories, so you have to tell it for them." That is at the core of the job of fishermen, aquaculture farmers, retailers, restaurants, supermarkets, and more. They need to explain the stories of the fish they sell as those interesting tales will help them sell more seafood. And for a writer like me, I revel in hearing these compelling tales from the exhibitors at the Seafood Expo. If a story is interesting enough, then I want to share it with my readers, spreading my passion for seafood.

2.  It is a huge event.
Billing itself as "the largest seafood trade event in North America," SENA continues to get larger each year and attendance records were broke once again. This year, there were over 1090 companies exhibiting and the exhibit space has risen from 185,780 net square feet in 2013 to over 197,000 net square feet this year. The attendance reached over 19,000, breaking another record. And this year, a larger number of local bloggers attended the Expo too, which will mean even greater coverage for the seafood industry.

It seemed more crowded this year, especially on Sunday and Monday, and at times it was slow walking down the aisles because of all of the people. However, despite the large number of attendees, there still is rarely is a significant line at any booth. What helps is that the huge crowd of attendees is spread out over a vast exhibit hall. They are not compressed into a small area. Fortunately, SENA also last for three days, as there is so much to see and do, and even those three days are only sufficient for you to experience a fraction of what is there. The large number of exhibitors allows there to be a huge diversity of products and services, catering to all needs and preferences. Make sure you get plenty of rest the night before, and wear comfortable shoes, as you'll be walking plenty.

3.  It is very international in scope.
In 2012, about 42 countries exhibited at the Expo while 46 exhibited in 2013. This year, the number increased once again, to 48, and you will also find representatives of over 120 countries attending the show, a real melting pot of seafood lovers. As you meander down the aisles, and though English is dominant, you will still hear a variety of languages and you have the opportunity to learn much about these other countries, especially at the regional pavilions. For example, the above picture is from the Morocco pavilion. At each booth, the exhibitors are eager to share information about their countries, cultures and seafood.

For international exhibitors, you will find participation by countries such as Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Canada (including Quebec, British Colombia, New Brunswick, Newfoundland, Labrador, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia), Chile, China, Colombia, Costa Rica, Denmark, Ecuador, Estonia, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, India, Indonesia, Japan, Latvia, Malaysia, Maldives, Mexico, Morocco, Myanmar, Netherlands, New Zealand, Northern Ireland, Norway, Panama, Peru, Portugal, Scotland, Singapore, South Korea, Spain, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, United Kingdom, Vietnam and others. Though there may be plenty of conflict on the international stage, you won't find it at SENA. Rather, you will discover that a shared love for seafood brings people from all over the world together without dissension or enmity.

There is no lack of domestic representation either and you'll find exhibitors from states including Alaska, Florida, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Mississippi, Maryland, North Carolina, and Virginia.

4.  It is a business event.
At its essence, it is all about commerce. The exhibitors are there offering products and services they wish to sell to attendees, including fresh & frozen food, processing equipment, cooking supplies, food safety services, computer systems, financial services, insurance, laboratory testing, and much more. They are seeking new customers as well as trying to retain existing ones. Often, an exhibitor booth will plenty of brochures, flyers, pamphlets, business cards and other documents to educate potential customers, and to give them contact information.

According to a survey, the top reason for attendees to visit the Expo is to meet with existing suppliers and find new suppliers. As you pass by the various booths, you'll often see people huddled at tables engaged in business. Filling out purchasing orders, negotiating prices, discussing specifics needs, and much more. And seafood is big business.

For example, the U.S. seafood industry generates approximately $129 billion in sales impacts and $37 billion in income impacts, supporting about 1.2 million jobs. Alaska possesses the largest portion of landing revenues, $1.9 billion, while Massachusetts, my home state, comes in second place at $33 million. Another New England state, Maine, takes third place with $381 million. And none of these figures touch on the value of the international seafood industry.

5.  It is an educational event.
As you stop by the various booths, you will have the chance to learn so very much that is seafood related. You can learn about the different types of tuna, the spawning life of salmon, or the eating habits of lobster. If you are seeking cooking advice, you will find plenty of recipes, as well as receive plenty of suggestions for preparing all types of seafood. You can learn much about sustainability, which is a complex issue and thus education is very important. You will learn about the ins and out of catching wild fish as well as the intricacies of aquaculture, of farmed seafood. If it is related to seafood, there is probably an opportunity or resource here available for you to consult.

Besides the exhibitors, there were over 25 educational seminars, in five different tracks: Retail & Marketing, Food Safety & Compliance, Foodservice & Processing, Sustainability and Seafood Business Leadership. You could find sessions such as Is Aquaculture Sustainable?, Seafood Mislabeling & Fraud, and Fisheries Improvement on a Budget. There were also a series of Master Classes, each delving deeply into a specific seafood, including Lobster, Salmon and Oysters. Each seminar last from 60-90 minutes, and overall I have found them to be educational and informative. I always make sure to attend several seminars at each Expo. You won't become a seafood expert at the Expo, but you will be pleased with all that you have learned. I certainly believe I have learned plenty from the Expo over the years.

6.  It is a fun event.
Though the event is primarily business oriented, that doesn't mean everything has to be serious. First, I found most of the exhibitor to be down-to-earth, easy to laugh and joke. That makes conversations very easy and enjoyable. Second, there are other diversions for your enjoyment. For example, you could have watched the 8th Annual Oyster Shucking Competition, a speed shucking contest with 15 contestants. This year, they had their first female winner, Deborah Pratt, who works for the Virginia Marine Products Board. She shucked a dozen oysters in an adjusted time of 90 seconds, and won the first prize of $700.

You could find some exhibitors offer games or contests at their booths, such as guessing the identity of a strange fish or spinning a wheel of fortune. This year, you could have potentially won 6 pounds of Maine seafood, or maybe a model Toothfish. You could also observe some Chef Demos, maybe watching one carefully slice sushi or another preparing a mussel dish. As you wandered the aisles, you could interest with costumed characters, from Capt'n Catfish to the Chicken of the Sea Mermaid. Or get your picture taken with one of the huge, stuffed polar bears or the rotund, stuffed panda. The key is to enjoy yourself, even if you have to conduct business at the Expo.

7.  There is a wide diversity of seafood.
What a fantastic selection of seafood available at SENA! Besides the familiar fish, such as tuna, salmon, catfish, cod, flounder, herring, pollock, trout and such, you will also find much less common fish, such as capelin, croaker, grenadier, hoki, kingklip, lumpfish, ono, opah, and sturgeon. There is plenty of shellfish, including clams, crabs, lobsters, mussels, oysters, scallops, and more. You'll even find more exotic fare such as alligator, caviar, cockles, frog legs, sea urchin, seaweed and even sea vegetables. If you peruse the exhibits, you'll probably see something you have never seen before. I know I always find something new.

There isn't much edible that lives under the sea which cannot be found at SENA and you should taste some of the weirder options, just because you have the chance. I have to say that I enjoyed some delicious kelp, frog legs and uni this year.

8.  Shrimp is dominant but salmon is ubiquitous.
Shrimp is once again the seafood which is available from the most amount of exhibitors at SENA, however I found that there was a relatively small amount of shrimp available for tasting. Salmon was the most commonly available seafood for tasting, and it also occupies second place in the number of exhibitors carrying it. That makes sense as salmon occupies the #1 spot in fin fish, about 37.8% of the market share. After salmon, the seafood carried by the most amount of exhibitors included crab, squid, cod, tuna and tilapia. You might be surprised that some of even the more unusual seafood items still were carried by a number of exhibitors. For example, there were 14 exhibitors of sea vegetables. 13 of caviar, 13 of frog legs, and 4 of alligator.

9.  Sustainability is prevalent.
Seafood sustainability appears to be a much more prominent topic this year than last. More exhibitors were discussing and addressing issues of sustainability and there are also more seminars on sustainability issues. Some of the seminars include Gulf Seafood Today: Marketing, Traceability, and Sustainability, Lessons Learned: How the Shrimp Industry Can Recover and be More Sustainable in a Post-EMS world, and Pathways to Sustainability - A discussion of the practical solutions to accelerate the aquaculture industry towards greater sustainability. As I mentioned last year, this is a very positive sign, a hope that more and more individuals and companies involved in the seafood industry are concerning about saving the bounty of the sea. It seemed as if there were more signs at the booths too indicating the sustainability of their products.

There are still a few bothersome elements at the show, seafood like Blue Fin Tuna and Shark Fin which have significant sustainability problems. Change is still coming to these areas though. For example, at least seven U.S. states ban Shark Fin and Massachusetts is working towards making it illegal too. The Chinese are the largest consumers of shark fins though they have been moving away from them. For example, they are now banned from official banquets. As for Blue Fin Tuna, the Japanese, who consume about 80% of the world's supply, are starting to cut back consumption. Japan recently agreed to significant cuts in the quotas for juvenile Blue Fin. These cuts are hoped to lead other countries to cut their quotas as well.

I'll have much more to say about Sustainability in another post coming in the next couple days.

10.  Seafood is healthy.
As I have said often, seafood is a healthy choice. According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC) the leading cause of death in the U.S. is heart disease, killing nearly 600,000 people each year. Seafood is so healthy because it can contain significant amounts of Omega-3s, fatty acids including eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Since the 1970s, over 20,000 research studies have been conducted on the health benefits of EPA and DHA. The main conclusion is that eating seafood twice a week reduces the chances of dying from heart disease by 36%. You probably won't find another single food that has been scientifically proven to reduce heart disease so significantly. Out of everything that you can eat, you must include seafood in your diet.

11.  Seafood samples are abundant.
If the first ten items have not been sufficiently persuasive, then this final reason should convince you. Many of the exhibitors offer free samples of their seafood products, and the vast majority of them are tasty, if not quite delicious. Fresh sushi, smoked salmon, seafood arancini, raw oysters, seafood pies, fried shrimp, a variety of crab cakes, sauteed alligator and so much more. I never eat breakfast when I attend the Expo because I know I can start sampling seafood at 10am. You can enjoy the bounty of the sea all day, and you might not even want dinner that evening. Each year, there are new foods to try, and you will find some old favorites still around as well. Who wouldn't enjoy all that free seafood?

You can expect additional posts about the SENA over the next couple days, and I am sure I will write even more posts over time, following up on some fascinating items that I have learned or encountered. The Seafood Expo is always inspiring, sparking my creativity. I hope too you read the posts from other local bloggers about the Expo. If you have anything in particular you would like to know about the SENA, please ask me and I will see if I can help you out.

"No human being, however great, or powerful, was ever so free as a fish."
---John Ruskin